Emergency Water Sources and Water Storage

Water. Besides clean air, it’s the most important thing that you need to live. 4 minutes without air. 4 days without water. 4 weeks without food. That’s how long you can survive without these basic necessities. Because water is so important for survival, it is worth taking some time to evaluate your emergency water storage and usage plans.

First, take into account how much water storage capacity you currently have on hand. Include your bathtubs, sinks, hot water heaters, laundry machine, even the tank above your commode can serve as an emergency water supply. Add in any improvised water storage containers that are able to contain safe drinking water. When an emergency is imminent, you will often have a few minutes to fill up improvised water storage units such as the bathtubs, sinks, and clothes washing machine. To improve water cleanliness, bladders such as the Water Bob can be placed in your bathtub. Large water bladders such as this provide an air-free sealed container that keeps out dust and other particulates that can cause the water to turn sour over time. Smaller containers like this 5 gallon water bladder are more convenient than a large barrel or water bladder and have a carry handle that makes them easy to transport. Pre-fill these water bladders and store them in your freezer so that the next time a disaster strikes you will have plenty of water. The frozen jug can be used to keep food cold, and as it melts you will have fresh cold drinking water when you need it.

If an emergency is imminent, it is usually prudent to turn off the water supply to your house (unless supplied by a well). Public water supplies can be contaminated by either flooding or prolonged power outage. If this happens, your water supply could also become quickly contaminated. After shutting off the water you can recover the water held in your plumbing lines by opening the faucet with the highest elevation (usually a shower on the second floor) and then collecting the water by turning on the spigot or faucet at the lowest elevation and collecting that water in a clean storage container. Make sure you have sufficient containers, as the average household plumbing can contain as much as 10 gallons of water, possibly more in larger homes. In some cases water heaters located in an attic or second floor may also back-flow (siphon) into the plumbing and be able to be collected at the lowest spigot. If this is a possibility disconnect the hot water supply valve or turn off your water heater and let it cool (about 4 hours) before draining it into your water storage containers prior to draining the household plumbing lines.

Even if your house is served by a well instead, it’s still a good idea to fill up bathtubs and other water containers since the electricity that powers your well pump may not be available when an emergency strikes. An alternative is to have a generator or other power backup that you can use to power your well.

In some cases, with water taken from a container whose cleanliness is questionable or scavenged from a foreign source for example, you will need to treat the water to kill off any microorganisms that may be there. A personal water purification bottle such as the Katadyn MyBottle can be used to purify water consumed on an individual bases. Each filter will last for approximately 30 days of continual use for a person consuming an average of 3 quarts of water a day. Alternatively, water purification tablets can be used, but it should be noted that while these tablets do kill microorganisms they do not eliminate harmful chemicals. Water should never be consumed from a container that once held any sort of chemical, petroleum product, or cleaning supply.

Most people don’t realize how much water storage they actually have on hand. Even the most spartan economy apartment has 10 gallons or more of water storage just in the plumbing fixtures such as sinks and toilets. Add in a little bit of planning by keeping some additional water storage systems on hand in case of emergency and you should be able to store plenty of water to weather the storm.

For more information on emergency water filters, see our article on Water Purification

September is National Preparedness Month

Here in Texas, we’re hunkered down while Tropical Storm Hermine brings torrential rains and high winds to much of the state. It’s not really a coincidence that September was chosen as National Preparedness month since it comes right near the peak of Hurricane Season.

Gulf coast and eastern seaboard residents should already be prepared for the inevitable hurricane strike. Following Katrina and Ike, there has been a resurgence of awareness about the need to have a minimum of 3 days food and water for each individual in your home, along with batteries for flashlights and radios or a generator to provide power while electrical lines are restrung.

Led by the Ready Campaign, National Preparedness month is held each September to help spread awareness of the need to take simple steps to prepare for an emergency that could affect local communities.

What Is National Preparedness Month?

National Preparedness Month (NPM) is sponsored by the Ready Campaign in partnership with Citizen Corps and the Advertising Council. NPM is held each September to encourage Americans to take simple steps to prepare for emergencies in their homes, businesses, and communities. September 2010 is the seventh annual NPM. This year will focus on encouraging Americans to work together to take concrete actions toward emergency preparedness. We are encouraging all Americans to join the readiness team and truly help themselves, their neighbors, and their communities be Ready.

• NPM Coalition membership is open to all public and private sector organizations. Groups can register to become an NPM Coalition Member by visiting ready.gov and clicking on the NPM banner.

• In 2009, nearly 2,700 organizations joined the Ready Campaign in promoting the readiness message across the country in homes, schools, businesses, and communities to highlight the importance of individual and community public emergency preparedness throughout September.

• During NPM, Coalition Members share preparedness information with their members, customers, employees, and communities. Members spearhead activities that encourage specific steps for individual, neighborhood, and community preparedness.

• Throughout the year, the Ready Campaign promotes individual emergency preparedness. Ready is a national public service advertising (PSA) campaign, produced in partnership with The Advertising Council, to educate and empower Americans to prepare for and respond to emergencies, including natural disasters and potential terrorist attacks.

• The Campaign’s Web sites (ready.gov and listo.gov) and toll-free numbers (1-800-BE-READY, TTY 1-800-462-7585, and 1-888-SE-LISTO) provide Americans with free emergency preparedness information.

• Citizen Corps is FEMA’s grassroots strategy to bring together government and community leaders to involve citizens in all-hazards emergency preparedness and resilience. Local Citizen Corps Councils enable collaborative planning between government and civic leaders and provide localized support for: outreach and educational efforts to the public; training and exercises that effectively integrate all sectors of the community; and volunteer programs that augment the full range of emergency response services. For more information about Citizen Corps, visit http://www.citizencorps.gov/.

Preparing for a disaster is not difficult. With a little bit of planning and a minimal investment into some rudimentary supplies and equipment, you’ll be ahead of the game when disaster strikes.

Food
The Canned Food Alliance says that the minimum amount of food you need is two cans of food per person, per day and one gallon of water per person per day. Dr. Judy Harrison and Dr. Elizabeth L. Andress, in “Preparing an Emergency Food Supply: Long Term Food Storage” write that we need to eat at lease one balanced meal a day. There are many resources on the web that will help you decide how many pounds of essential bulk items you will need per person for a year.

Your food supply should consist of non-perishable food items, pre-made complete meal boxed foods, canned goods, rice, beans, whole grains, flour, salt, seasonings, peanut butter, nuts, evaporated milk, sugar and storable fats, such as olive oil and vegetable oils is a good place to start. Choose a variety of foods and pick ones that you and your family already like. You would be surprised at all the different varieties of rice, beans and noodles you can find.

Water
You will need to store plenty of water, too, not only for drinking, but for cooking, washing, food prep, dish washing, laundry, teeth cleaning and other wash-up needs. Tap water is fine to use for long-term storage. 14 gallons of water per person will give you a two-week supply, or another suggestion is to buy 55 gallon plastic food-grade water drums. You may also purchase commercially-bottled water. If you go this route, make sure you use the water by its use-by-date. A cheap way of storing water is reusing 2 liter plastic soda bottles. Once you are done with the soda, give the bottle a good cleaning and sanitizing and fill with tap water. Tap water will need to be disinfected using household bleach, a water purification tablet or a water filtration system. You can also get water from your hot water heater or the toilet tank. Replace your stored water every six months. For more details on water purification, please see our articles on preparedness and water purification.

First Aid
For any household, a first aid kit is a must. If you do not already have one, you can build your own first aid kit or purchase pre-assembled kits such as the STOMP Portable Hospital Extensive and Intensive Medic Care kit. Inspect your first aid kit yearly and discard and replace any old, damaged, used, or expired items in the kit.

Don’t forget to include in the kit a supply of any prescription medications taken in your household, as well as materials to care for a sick or injured pet. If you have infants or pets, you may need to make sure that you have a supply of formula and diapers, or a stockpile of pet kibble for Fido. If possible, generate at least a 30-60 day supply of medicine over and above what you usually have on hand. This is especially important for critical prescription medicines such as insulin or heart medication. Most doctors will be willing to write a larger prescription, especially prior to hurricane or storm season, if you explain to them that you want to have a 60-day supply that you can rotate through. Your prescription insurance may not cover a large purchase like that, but it is well worth the money spent. Once your supply is established, continue to rotate new prescriptions through the supply using the oldest dated medicine first. Ibuprofen, acetaminophen, burn ointments, and instant glucose are all examples of over-the-counter medications that should be considered for inclusion in your first aid kit. Over-the-counter Benadryl and an EpiPen can also be considered for inclusion in any first aid kit. These can be used to quickly arrest what might otherwise be a fatal allergic reaction.

It is important to address how waterproof your first aid kit is. If the bag itself isn’t waterproof, the individual containers in it should be. In an emergency situation, the bag may be exposed to adverse weather or moisture, and that can ruin many of the items inside if they are not properly protected.

Electricity
Much of what we consider hallmarks of a modern society are predicated upon the cheap abundance of electrical energy. But what happens when that electricity is no longer available? Many of us have been without power for a few minutes or hours. We’ve huddled around a battery-powered radio or played Monopoly by candlelight while we waited for a storm to abate and the power to be restored. Yet sometimes, it can take days or weeks for a power grid to be brought back online. Hurricane Katrina and Ike are two examples where the power was not restored to some areas for more than a month. Without electricity, refrigerators and freezers begin to defrost in a couple of days. Food that once may have been available is now rotten. Most gasoline pumps are non-functional without power, making fuel shortages a distinct possibility. Without air-conditioning the heat can become unbearable and even deadly.

Generators are one solution to an extended power loss, but if you have a generator you must also have a fuel supply for it. Stored gasoline and diesel fuel can go bad in less than a year if left untreated. There are numerous products such as Sta-Bil for gasoline and PRI-D for diesel. Such products can extend fuel shelf life anywhere from 5-10 years depending on storage conditions. Other fuels such as propane and natural gas do not go bad, but can be more difficult to store. Propane and natural gas-fired generators are available too, but are usually larger, not easily portable, and meant for use as a standby generator.

Other solutions for power generation such as photovoltaics or windmills can be expensive and inefficient. In addition, such installations may not be permitted in urban areas. Cities often have maximum height limits on structures, and winds closer to the ground are weaker. Home owners associations also have strict rules that often prohibit wind generators or solar panels.

Cooking
Flashlights, candles, and a battery-powered radio are just the beginning of a power-loss kit. Food preparation is something else to consider. Without electricity, microwaves and electric ranges will not work. In some situations, natural gas may not be available to run a gas stove or oven. Barbeque grills are one option for cooking food, but they can only be used outside, and can require copious amounts of fuel to be used for extended periods of time. Propane ranges, Sterno kits, and white-gas camp stoves are a better alternative. These systems use fuel that is safe, easily portable, and very efficient at generating heat.

Personal Safety Hurricanes, tornadoes, and earthquakes aren’t the only threats that people should prepare for: terrorist attacks are still a threat to the safety of Americans. Owning and learning to use a concealed handgun can provide personal defense wherever you are. Most states issue concealed carry licenses to any law-abiding gun owner. Check your local laws for more information.

Mossberg offers a “Just In Case shotgun combo that comes in a waterproof tube with a green cover. This design is more suited for a wilderness survival scenario, but could easily be adapted and customized for home defense. The shotgun has matte black finished furniture, blued steel, and synthetic pistol grip stock. Mossberg includes a “Survival Kit in a Can”, manufactured by Coghlan’s of Canada with the shotgun. This rudimentary survival kit includes matches, basic first aid supplies, emergency rations, a basic fishing kit, along with various other useful items such as a razor, duct tape, and safety pins.

Have A Plan
The most important part in being prepared is to have a plan for every situation. This may be as simple as thinking through various “what if” scenarios in your head (what if I lose my wallet or have a flat tire?), to something as elaborate as having a written escape plan and bug out bag in the case of a house fire. Have a family meeting to discuss the plans you make. Other family members may have ideas or concerns about your plans. Make sure that everyone in your household knows what the plans are for each situation, and share your plans with other friends and family so that they know where you are and what you will be doing in an emergency.

Mossberg JIC “Just In Case” Shotgun Combo

Preparedness has become mainstream as more and more people are realizing that it truly does pay off to be prepared for possible emergencies. Mossberg has recently stepped up to answer the demand for survival kits and packaged their enormously popular Model 500 pump action shotgun into a variety of kits, calling it the “Just In Case” or “JIC”.

The survival oriented combo packs feature a Model 500 shotgun that has been outfitted with an 18.5″ barrel and a pistol grip packaged in a waterproof and impact resistant tube, or a heavy duty bag in the case of the JIC II. The survival accessories included with each kit vary depending on the intended role.

Each of the three JIC models, along with the newly introduced JIC II “Takedown” model, are designed for use in a particular environment. All three of the JIC models are enclosed in a resealable waterproof bag. The stainless steel Mariner model is further packaged in a floating blaze orange tube and has Mossberg’s proprietary Marinekote finish to help protect it from harsh saltwater environments. Included with the scatter gun is a multi-tool and a serrated folding knife with a 500 denier cordura case.

The Cruiser model also comes in a waterproof tube but with a green cover. This design is more suited for a wilderness survival scenario. The shotgun has matte black finished furniture, blued steel, and synthetic pistol grip stock. Mossberg includes a “Survival Kit in a Can”, manufactured by Coghlan’s of Canada with the shotgun. This rudimentary survival kit includes matches, basic first aid supplies, emergency rations, a basic fishing kit, along with various other useful items such as a razor, duct tape, and safety pins.

The least expensive Sandstorm model does not include a survival kit or a knife and tool, but does come in a waterproof tube with a desert camouflage pattern cover and carrying strap. The shotgun itself also has a desert camo finish and a synthetic pistol grip.

The newest addition to the JIC lineup, the JIC II is a new takedown version of the Model 500. Like the cruiser model, it has a matte black synthetic plastic pistol grip and forend and blued steel. It comes packaged in a heavy duty pouch and includes all the tools necessary to quickly assemble the shotgun. Broken down, the component pieces of the shotgun are securely held in place with hook and loop straps inside of a custom carrying case manufactured by 5.11 Tactical. The total package measures just over 24″ in length and is easily portable using the included shoulder strap.

The Takedown model, as well as the other JIC shotguns, has an 18.5″ barrel with a 3″ chamber. They’re outfitted with simple bead type sights and a magazine tube with a 5+1 capacity. All of the watertight storage tubes used in the JIC line are roomy enough to hold other items such as ammunition or MREs. The tubes are watertight up to 17 psi (1.17 bar), or approximately 40 foot of water, but their inherent tendency towards flotation makes it unlikely that you’ll need to worry about them sinking.

Retail prices for the packages range from $350 to $400 depending on which model you choose.

Keep Your Bearings and Find Your Way In the Woods

It’s the time of year where many people head out into the woods and mountains to do a bit of camping, hiking, and just get away from it all for a while.

Like many other things, a bit of planning and preparation goes a long way towards ensuring that you won’t become disoriented out in the wilderness. Get familiar with the terrain before you head out. Study maps of the area you will be in, making note of any prominent landmarks such as railroad tracks, power lines, creeks, rivers, hills and valleys. If you find yourself turned around you can use these landmarks to find your way back to familiar terrain. My siblings and I used techniques such as this when out exploring on the 1,200 acre ranch we grew up on. That amount of land is easy for an 8 year old to get lost on, but whenever I found myself disoriented I could simply walk around until I spotted a power line and then follow it back to the road, ranch house, or one of the barns.

If you’re heading out into the woods, even if you’ll just be taking a small 30 minute hike, take along a basic survival kit including a compass or GPS. Many people who found themselves lost in the wild had only taken a few steps off of a trail when they found they were unable to find their way back. Without any means of navigation, it’s all too easy for a quick walk in the park to become a life threatening situation. Even seasoned outdoorsmen can find themselves disoriented when weather such as heavy snow, fog, or rain makes visibility limited.

If you choose to carry a GPS, make sure you’ve got spare batteries for it as well. If you carry a compass, make sure that you know how to use it in conjunction with a map. The best maps for navigating outdoors are 1:24,000 scale 7.5-minute topographic maps available from the U.S. Geological Survey. They are available online for a small fee at USGS.gov

The best way to prevent getting lost while out hiking in the wilderness is to keep an eye on landmarks and pay close attention to where you’ve been, where you are, and where you’re heading. If you’re simply hiking a trail, this may be as simple as looking for curves and elevation changes on the trail that match what is indicated on the map. If you leave established trails, take a bearing or track your progress with a GPS device to ensure that you can find your way back to your last known position. Take careful note of landmarks you can use to guide yourself back to the trail. As you walk, periodically turn around so that you can see what the path you are taking looks like from the opposite direction.

Should you become lost, or suspect that you are, take a break, sit down, and relax. It’s very easy to give in to the panic that sets in as you become more and more convinced that you are lost. Instead, sit down and have a bite to eat if you’ve brought some food or a snack. If you have one, take out your GPS or compass and map and take a bearing. Mentally retrace your steps and the path that you took. Often times calmly reviewing what you did and where you went before you got lost is all you need to do to be able to find your way back.

If you don’t have a compass or GPS, use landmarks, the position of the sun, moon, or northern star to orient yourself. When this fails, it’s time to use whatever else you have at your disposal to find your way back to civilization. Even if you are stuck without a compass or GPS, you can still certain tried and true methods to find your way. One older method for navigating unknown terrain is to follow rivers and streams. Humans build most of our settlements along waterways. If you find yourself lost, one sure fire way to eventually work your way back to a town or city is to head downhill. Continue moving downhill until you come across a stream, creek, or other waterway. Follow this waterway and you are assured of coming across a bridge or human settlement sooner or later. Just bear in mind, if you’re truly out in the wilderness that “later” may mean days or even weeks before a meandering waterway eventually brings you to a rescue point, making this a choice you generally only want to use when you have exhausted all other options.

If you do have a compass, GPS, or other navigational aid, you are in a much better position. Hopefully you made preparations before heading out and know the general direction to take to find your way back. Even though your compass may tell you to go in a direction that does not seem correct, you should always trust your compass or GPS. Remember: you’re the one that’s lost. A compass rarely deviates from magnetic north. A critical mistake many people make when they are disoriented is refusing to follow their compass or other navigational instruments. Even trained pilots have been known to ignore a compass reading and instead trust their gut, often leading to disastrous consequences. While GPS readings can be less accurate under cloudy skies or a very leafy canopy, even under these conditions your GPS will give you a fairly accurate path as you travel: usually accurate enough to find your way back. If you’re going to be out in the wild for a couple of days, it’s best to conserve your batteries and use the GPS in conjunction with a map and compass. Paired up with a USGS topographical map, this makes it easy to use the GPS to get precise latitude and longitudinal coordinates that you can mark on the topo map.

When setting out, I mark the position of my vehicle or trail head. Then, using the compass and map I navigate along the trail or through the countryside, stopping periodically to take the GPS back out and turn it on long enough to get another set of coordinates which are then plotted on the map. If I’m navigating a dense forest, such as I am forced to do when making my way to my deer stand during hunting season, I use fluorescent or reflective trail markers. Tied on a tree every hundred feet or so, depending on the visibility in the brush, these markers make it easy to find your way even under low light conditions. I use these paired up with a red LED headlamp to find my way in the wee hours of the morning, even in heavy fog, to navigate back and forth between camp and my hunting position.

Even if you’re prone to getting lost or turned around, with just a little bit of preparation you can be confident in your ability to navigate in the wilderness. Always make sure to tell a close friend or family member where you’re going, how long you plan on being gone, and when you expect to return. This way if you don’t return when expected your friend or family can alert rescue teams. Make sure to pack an emergency survival kit including first aid supplies and a compass or other navigational aid, even if you only plan on being out for an hour or so. Practice navigation and orienteering to improve your skills and keep them sharp. With enough practice and preparation, even if you do manage to get lost for a few hours or even day or so, it will be nothing more than a bit of an adventure that leaves you with some stories to tell around the campfire.

Shelter In Place

A couple of weeks ago we discussed hurricane preparedness and briefly touched on sheltering in place. Obviously, if you’re in a structure that is vulnerable to high winds, such as a mobile home or travel trailer, or if your home is in a storm surge or flood prone area, it is always going to be advisable to evacuate when a hurricane threatens.

Even if you feel your structure is sound, if your local authorities recommend evacuating you should heed the advice and seek shelter outside the path of the hurricane. When an evacuation is called for, it is not just for your safety but also for the safety of the emergency services in your area. In a situation where the evacuation order is given, police, fire, and medical services will not be able to help you during an emergency if you refuse to evacuate. If you remain during an evacuation, you are well and truly on your own. Always evacuate when the order is given. The best way to avoid a disaster is to not be there when it happens.

If you do make the decision to shelter in place and ride out the storm, you will need to be adequately prepared. This preparation is even more important when a sudden emergency happens and there is no time to evacuate. When sheltering in place, it helps to have a “bug-in-bag” with all of the supplies you will need to endure a hurricane, tornado, or other disaster. Prior to the need to shelter in place, make a checklist to help ensure that no supplies are forgotten and that all necessary actions are taken.

When the time comes, you will need to move to a safe room that you have previously identified (generally a room near the center of the structure on the ground floor). Grab your Shelter In Place Kit or bug-in-bag,personalized first aid kit (including prescription medications), a radio and cell phone, as well as your Bug Out Bag in case you are later forced to evacuate (you do have a bug out bag, don’t you?).

What supplies do you need in your shelter in place kit? The basics should start a 5 gallon bucket, which can be found at most hardware or feed stores. This bucket can be used to carry all of the contents of your shelter in place kit. It also doubles as an emergency toilet. Inside the bucket you should keep duct tape, plastic sheeting and heavy duty garbage bags, MREs, energy bars, or canned food and a can opener, respirator or gas masks, moistened wipes and hand sanitizer gel, radio and flashlight along with spare batteries, scissors and a utility knife or multi-tool, a deck of a cards or some form of entertainment (especially important if you have children), ziploc bag of chlorinated lime (calcium hypochlorite), and (if your local laws allow) a self defense weapon. You should also have bottled water prepositioned in your safe room, as it would be impractical to store this in your bucket. Plan on having a little more than one gallon of water per person, at a minimum. Post-Katrina, many individuals have added hand axes or hatchets to their shelter in place kit so that they may be able to chop through the ceiling and roof of their shelter to escape rising floodwaters inside their home.

But, you say, what is all of this equipment for? The radio, food, water, flashlight, and self defense are all pretty self explanatory; but why the duct tape, plastic sheeting, and other items? If you are sheltering in place, it’s highly likely that you won’t have access to running water. Since conditions are unsafe outdoors, you will need some way to handle human waste. That’s where the bucket and the chlorinated lime come into play. You can use the bucket as a makeshift toilet, but there is the problem of foul odors. Sprinkling in a small scoop of lime (about one Tablespoon) after each use helps tame the smell. Next, let’s focus on the duct tape and plastic sheeting. Duct tape has many uses, but for our purposes here, we’re concerned about sealing off doors and windows; not from a hurricane, but in the case of a toxic chemical spill or other disaster that results in airborne contaminants (smoke, poisonous gas, or dangerous airborne biological hazards).

In the case of an airborne contaminant emergency, you will need to seal off doors, windows, and air vents using the plastic sheeting and duct tape. Be aware that with doors and windows sealed up that the oxygen level in your safe room may only last 8 hours before CO2 levels begin to become toxic. Any sign of headache, sleepiness or disorientation may indicate that CO2 levels have become unsafe, and you will need to find a way to get fresh air.

When putting together a first aid kit to keep in your shelter in place supplies, don’t neglect any special needs of individuals in your household. For diabetics, it may be necessary to include glucose tabs or even a cooler that you can fill with ice to keep insulin cold. Asthma sufferers may need rescue inhalers, and elderly family members may have other needs as well.

Plan ahead so that your shelter in place kit and your first aid kit both have enough of the proper supplies. Make a checklist of actions that need to be taken and items that need to be grabbed in an emergency. Stress makes it hard to focus in the face of an emergency, but by planning ahead and having a written checklist and course of action, you will be ready when disaster strikes.

How To Use A Compass

It’s a traditional skill often passed down from father to son. You can get a merit badge for learning it in the Boy Scouts. But how many people really know how to use a compass? Many folks mindlessly include it in their backpacking supplies, and it is frequently seen as a necessary item in a bug-out-bag. Yet, if you found yourself in an emergency situation, needing to navigate to safety, would you know how?

History of the Compass

China
The earliest evidence of any sort of compass being used dates back to around 1,400 – 1,000 B.C. with the discovery of an Olmec hematite artifact. If this recent discovery bears out to be accurate, it would predate the Chinese discovery of lodestone (the mineral initially used to make magnetic compass needles.)

Military Lensatic Compass

The earliest Chinese compasses likely had very little to do with navigation. More than likely they were used for feng shui. Feng shui would have made use of the compasses to harmonize the environment of a building to be in certain principles of flow and design.

References to an iron “south-pointing fish” that floated in a bowl of water are first recorded in a book from the Song Dynasty that dates to around 1041 A.D. Later in 1088 A.D. there is reference in a book written by Chinese scientist Shen Kuo of magnetized needles that are hung from a single silk strand. Apparently not having knowledge of magnetic polarity yet, Kuo noted that the needles always pointed towards the north or the south. A mere 35 years later there is the first documentation of what we would consider the modern compass, where it is described by author Zhu Yu as being used by sailors to navigate waters in the dark or when cloudy.

In their earliest incarnations, compasses were marked simply with only markings showing magnetic north, or later the cardinal directions (north, south, east, west.) Later the Chinese divided these into 24 points on the compass card.

Europe
The compass did not come to Europe until sometime shortly before 1269 A.D. when Petrus Peregrinus wrote of a floating needle compass to be used for astronomical purposes. By 1290 A.D. the compass was found on sailing ships, allowing for a longer shipping season through the normally cloudy Mediterranean winter, although it was not until around 1410 that the compass was normally used as a steering reference.

In Europe, the divisions on the compass card were increased into 32 equally spaced points. Later, the 360-degree system became popular. Then, in the 1800s some European nations decided to use the gradian system. In this system, the compass card is divided into 400 points, with each right angle being composed of 100 gradians or “grads.” These gradians could then be divided into 10ths to give a total of 4,000 decigrades around the compass.

Magnetic Declination and Deviation
The Earth’s magnetic axis is slightly offset from its rotational axis. This means that a compass usually does not point to true north. Magnetic north is approximately 1,000 miles away from the geographic North Pole. In addition, the magnetic field of the earth is not the same everywhere. It changes depending on latitude, altitude, and the composition of nearby rock formations. There are two corrections that must be made to compensate for this difference: declination, and deviation. Deviation is the effect that local magnetic fields from ferrous objects and electrical circuits have on the magnetic needle of a compass. The declination (also known as the variation) is the angle between true north magnetic north. Most modern maps have the declination angle for the area they cover printed on them. Areas with no correction necessary make lines known as agonic lines. These areas exist in three places in both the eastern and western hemispheres.

Magnetic Deviation
Magnetic deviation is the response of the magnetic needle to local magnetic fields or the presence of ferrous materials.

The Earth’s magnetic field is not uniformly consistent. It varies greatly in intensity and inclination depending on latitude and altitude. Compass needles are specially balanced during manufacturing to compensate for differences in the magnetic field. Each balance design is intended for use in one of five zones on the planet, from Zone 1 which covers the majority of the Northern Hemisphere to Zone 5 which includes Australia and most of the Southern Pacific and Indian Oceans. Balancing the needles in this fashion prevents the needle from dipping too much and sticking.

Compass needles are also affected by nearby metals such as steel and iron. This problem is most common on ships where there is a large amount of metal. To correct for the magnetic deviation compasses on ships are housed in a binnacle and surrounded by large chunks of iron and magnets that are positioned in specific locations as compensation. These measures alone do not completely eliminate deviation however. Natural formations within the earth cause slight magnetic deviations which, while not enough to significantly alter the course of a hiker, can throw off ships by dozens of miles over a the course of a thousand mile journey.

Magnetic Declination
Magnetic declination is the difference between the magnetic North Pole and the geographic or “true” North Pole. The Earth’s magnetic axis is offset from the geographic rotational axis by a few thousand miles. This means that the indicated or magnetic north on your compass may be off as much as 10-20 degrees from geographic or “true” north.

Most maps have the declination adjustment printed on them. The declination can change rapidly from year to year as the Earth’s magnetic field fluctuates, so it is important to have an up to date map with the most recent declination adjustments. In the absence of a map, you can take a manual measurement of the local declination by measuring the difference between true north as indicated by a sundial or the North Star and the indicated magnetic north of a compass.

If indicated on a map, declination is usually given in the format of “10 degrees west” or alternatively “-10 degrees.” When reading declination adjustments, if given in the latter format, remember that negative numbers indicate west, and positive numbers indicate east. When adjusting the azimuth on a compass reading, it is simple to just add the compass reading with the declination to get the correct heading; e.g. with a 10 degrees west declination, and an indicated reading of 245 degrees, the corrected bearing would be 235 degrees.

When traveling by foot, you rarely have to take multiple declination readings. Unless you are in an area with heavy mineral and metal deposits, using just one declination reading is usually fine for hiking.

The Modern Compass
The most common modern compasses are the hand held lensatic compass, such as the US Military issued lensatic compass with tritium inserts, and the protractor compass. The lensatic compass is a military design initially developed to quickly direct mortar or artillery fire. Most military forces have adopted the “mil” system for measuring the compass dial. The milli-radian system uses 6400 units or “mils” per circle. The mil system was developed as a valuable method for measuring one meter at a distance of one kilometer (one mil = one meter at 1k) allowing for artillery fire to be precisely directed.

Lensatic Compass
The lensatic compass in its modern implementation is comprised of three basic parts; the cover, the base, and the lens. The base and cover are both square on one side ruled. The cover, in addition to protecting the lens and compass when closed, also has a slit, a sighting wire, and tritium dots or phosphorus dots for use in navigation. Lensatic compasses do not have needles. Instead the dial itself is magnetized and floats in a bezel ring in the base.

The base of the compass is outfitted with a sighting lens with a slot in it, a thumb loop, the bezel ring and of course the floating rotating dial. On the dial itself are two glowing letters indicating east and west, the directional arrow indicating north, an outer black scale in mils and another inner scale degrees. The inner scale indicator is in red color. The bezel ring around the dial is able to be rotated around, and has a ratchet that has 120 positions in a full 360 degree rotation, allowing for accuracy of 3 degrees when positioning the index line. The index line is a short luminous line in the glass face of the bezel. Also attached to the base is a thumb loop used for handling and stabilizing the compass.

The defining characteristic of a lensatic compass is, of course, the lens. The lens is set in a piece that folds over the compass face. This lens, in the open position, is used to read the floating dial. The lens also has a sighting slot that is used in conjunction with the sighting wire in the compass cover to sight landmarks. When used in this method, the user lines up the landmark in the sighting wire and the sighting slot, then glances down through the lens to read the bearing off of the compass dial. Opening and closing the lens also serves to lock or unlock the compass dial. In order for the compass dial to spin freely, the lens must be open a minimum of 45 degrees to unlock the clamp that holds the dial when the compass is closed.

Protractor Compass
Protractor compasses are probably the most common commercial compass, as well as the simplest to use. This compass is usually set in a rectangular clear plastic baseplate and is designed primarily for use with a map. One of the first things you will notice when looking at a protractor compass is the direction of travel arrow marked on the clear plastic baseplate. The edges of a protractor compass are generally ruled in various increments to aid in measuring distance on a topographical map.

The bezel of the protractor compass includes a transparent bottom compass housing which turns with the bezel, independently of the needle or the compass baseplate. Marked on the bottom of the bezel is a orienting arrow. This orienting arrow is lined up with the magnetic needle when taking a bearing, and compared to the direction of travel arrow inscribed on the compass baseplate.

Using a Compass Without a Map

Taking a Bearing
There are two main types of compasses, protractor and lensatic. Let’s address the protractor compass first. When using a compass without a map, you naturally will already know the general direction you want to travel. For example, if you are lost in the woods and you know there is a river a mile to the east that then leads north to a town five miles upstream, you may want to take a bearing heading due northwest. To take a bearing (also referred to as an azimuth) using your compass, turn the bezel until the northwest is on the direction of travel arrow. Next, holding the compass in your hand with the direction of travel arrow pointing away from you, turn your body until the red part of the needle points to the N on the bezel and is aligned within the lines on the bezel. Once the needle is lined up, you are facing the proper direction of travel. Pick a landmark that lines up with your direction of travel and use that as your guide; don’t keep the looking back at the compass. Once you reach the landmark, then take the compass back out, take another bearing, and repeat the process.

To take a bearing with a lensatic compass, you can use either the compass-to-cheek method shown to the right, or the center-hold method shown below. The method is largely the same as with a protractor compass. First, open the cover of your compass so that it is 90 degrees to the base. Open the eyepiece so that it is at a 45 degree angle to the base. Use the image on the right as a reference. Next, place your thumb through the thumb loop and form a steady base with your third and fourth fingers, while keeping your index finger along the side of the compass base. Use the hand not holding the compass as a support for the hand holding the compass. While keeping the compass level, bring both hands and the compass up to your face and position it so that the thumb going through the thumb loop is against the cheekbone. Again, use the image as a reference. Move the eyepiece until the dial below it is in focus. Align the sighting slot of the eyepiece with the sighting wire in the cover and turn until your target is lined up with the sighting wire. While keeping the wire on your target, look down through the lens and read the bearing under the index line.

The center-hold method, shown to the left, is not the preferred method, but it can be easier and faster to use when accuracy is not extremely important. To use the center-hold method, open the compass so that the cover is completely flat with the base. Move the lens of the compass out of the way. Place your thumb through the thumb loop and use your third and fourth fingers to form a steady base while keeping your index finger stretched along the side of the compass. Place the thumb of your other hand between the eyepiece and the lens with the index finger of that hand placed along the other side of that. Wrap the rest of the fingers of that hand around the fingers of the first hand. Finally, pull the compass in tight by tucking your elbows firmly against your sides.

Taking an azimuth is similar to taking a bearing, and though it is faster, it is not quite as accurate. Using the center-hold method, orient your body toward the target and point the compass cover in that direction. Glance down at your compass to read the azimuth beneath the black index line. On compasses equipped with tritium inserts, this method can also be used in darkness. Azimuth readings are most useful when actively navigating terrain, as the user can quickly pause to check the azimuth and confirm that they are still heading in the right direction. By lining up objects in the desired direction of travel, it is a simple matter to move from waypoint to waypoint by simply taking an azimuth reading to the next landmark and continuing in that direction.

Modern Protractor Compass

Using a Compass With a Map
Using a compass with a map is easiest with the use of a protractor compass, thoughlensatic compasses also have a straight edge ruler incorporated into the body to aid in use with a map. To take a true bearing or map bearing (one taken in reference to true north instead of magnetic north) place the compass on the map (layed out flat and level) with the edge of the compass parallel to the direction-of-travel arrow so that it makes a line between your current location and the desired location. Next, turn the bezel until the orienting lines are aligned with a marked line of longitude on the map. Make sure that the edge of the compass does not move on the map as you turn the bezel, or your bearing will be off. The map bearing is the number that is at the direction-of-travel line. Add or subtract the magnetic declination indicated on the map for the magnetic bearing.

You can use this bearing to navigate to your waypoint without the map by checking your azimuth as you travel in the manner described earlier in the article. Depending on the distance you are traveling, it may behoove you to stop periodically to confirm that your bearing is still accurate. If it is not, make a note of the corrected bearing and use that as you proceed along the azimuth toward your destination.

To navigate with a map using a military style style lensatic compass, open the case and place it on the map. Orient the compass on the map with the case cover to the north, thereby placing the black index line to the north. Orient the map by rotating it and compass until the declination marks on the map match the of the needle on the compass and the black index line. To then find the bearing needed to navigate to your target destination, without moving the map lay the ruled side of your compass along a line drawn from your current location to your destination. The bearing read on your compass ring is your heading.

Never Be Lost
With a compass and a map, you’re never truly lost for very long. The basics of compass navigation aren’t difficult to understand, but to truly become skilled at land navigation, you need to get outside and try it yourself. Pick up a lensatic or protractor compass and some topographical maps and try it out yourself. You’ll find that you’re soon able to navigate with ease in nearly any situation.

Hurricane Preparedness

Hurricane season is officially underway, but most of the news coming out of the Gulf of Mexico has more to do with oil than weather. Still, Mother Nature waits for no one, and it’s well past the time to prepare for a hurricane if you live anywhere along the Gulf and Atlantic coastlines.

The best way survive any disaster, including a hurricane, is to simply not be there when it occurs. I’m talking of course about evacuation. Modern satellites and meteorology allow us to predict a hurricanes path with a fairly high degree of accuracy. By paying attention to your local news, you can have a coudle of days advance warning that will allow you to head to a safer area outside of the hurricane landfall area.

Create an evacuation kit or “Bug-Out-Bag” that is easy to grab and toss into your car if you need to flee the affected area. Portable fuel tanks are also very handy, as evacuation routes are often clogged with traffic. Many people fleeing hurricanes find themselves left on the side of the road when they run out of fuel, as gas stations along evacuation routes quickly sell out of fuel.

When you return to an area impacted by a hurricane, it is very likely that electricity will be unavailable for a number of days, and possibly even weeks or months. Stores quickly sell out of generators in hurricane affected areas, so it’s critical to plan ahead and purchase a generator long before you will actually need it. How big of a generator you need is going to be determined primarily by how much power you need. We’ve got a handy guide that will help you determine what type and how large of a generator you should look for.

Lack of electricity can also impact your ability to prepare food, or store it as electric ranges and ovens will be inoperable, and freezers and refrigerators will quickly thaw allowing food to spoil. Gas ranges will usually be operable, but you should never take a barbecue grill or other outdoor cooking device and use it indoors, as dangerous fumes can kill or injure you. Similarly generators should be run outside in an open environment with adequate airflow, never indoors or in a garage.

If your residence is sturdy enough, it is generally safer to shelter-in-place unless you are under an evacuation advisory. It is far easier to marshal the resources you need to survive a hurricane at your residence than it is to pack what you’ll need to evacuate. Exceptions include mobile home residents and anyone who lives on the coast, in a flood plain or flood prone area: if your home or shelter is a temporary structure or vulnerable to winds, rain, or flooding (including storm surge) in any way you should always evacuate.

If you don’t have storm shutters, prepare now by measuring your windows and purchasing plywood and fasteners before a hurricane looms. Don’t bother putting tape on your windows, it won’t stop them from breaking. Only plywood, storm shutters, and some specially designed protective netting will prevent flying debris from destroying your glass. Also, keep your trees trimmed. You can avoid additional damage to your house from falling limbs by ensuring that weak, damaged, or dead limbs are cut off.

In addition to preparing your house, you’ll need certain supplies to get through a hurricane and the aftermath with minimal problems. You can easily put together a hurricane survival kit that will help you get through a hurricane no matter if you decide to ride out the storm or evacuate.

Regardless of whether you are riding out the storm or evacuating, always make sure that you have an adequate water supply. Lack of electricity can cause pumps to fail making tap water unavailable, and flooding may mean that even if you can get water from your tap, it may not be potable. Stock up on bottled water, enough for each person to have 1 gallon a day for at least a week. Bathtubs should be filled with clean water just before a storm hits. Consider investing in a bathtub waterBOB, a clear plastic liner complete with a pump which can keep water clean and fresh for longer. If you do need to use water from your water heater tank or other non-potable water source, there are many methods of water purification that you can use. Water purification tablets can be used to kill off harmful microorganisms in non-potable water. Katadyn also manufactures a number of filters that are able to remove most contaminants.

Adequate food supplies are also critical. Make sure to have enough non-perishable food for each person to have a minimum of 3,000 calories a day for seven days. If you don’t have one already, get a non-electric can opener. MREs are a good solution as they come with their own heating pouches that just require a little water to heat up a full meal.

In addition to food and water, the following items are a great addition to your hurricane kit.

• Clothing, including rain gear and a good pair of boots
• First Aid Kit
• Toys, diapers, etc. for infants and children
• Pet care kit (food, carrier/leash, immunization records, etc.)
• Travel toiletry kit
• Flashlights and batteries, with spares
• Battery operated radio with AM/FM and NOAA reception
• Critical documents in waterproof pouch (banking info, insurance, passports, birth certificates, etc.)
• Full fuel tanks in all vehicles along with additional spare fuel cans
• Blankets and pillows
• Cash, including small bills
• Portable tool set
• Fully charged cell phone, preferably with spare battery

Assembling A First Aid Kit

A well stocked first aid kit is a critical part of any survival or preparedness setup. How large your first aid kit needs to be is largely dependent on your individual situation, and whether the kit will be carried, tucked away in a vehicle, or in a closet at home.

I keep a first aid kit in my car, in my range bag, and at home. That’s three different kits in various sizes with different contents. The home based first aid kit is obviously the largest. When assembling a first aid kit, it’s useful to begin with one that is pre-made. Pre-manufactured kits usually come with their own bag or case, which is handy. I started out with the STOMP Mobile Hospital. It’s a top-of-the-line first aid setup with virtually everything you need to handle trauma at home or in the field, and it’s while it’s big, it all fits in a backpack that can be quickly grabbed for transport if necessary.

Military STOMP Portable Hospital, an advanced first aid kit that requires some training to fully utilize.

For my car, I started out with the Master First Aid Kit. It’s not as big as the STOMP Mobile Hospital and doesn’t take up much room in the trunk, but it’s still a good well rounded kit. An more robust alternative might be the Tactical Trauma Backpack. If you need something a bit cheaper, the Tactical Trauma Kit is a good place to start. The Tactical Trauma Kit is small enough to fit in some motorcycles as well.

Whether you are heading out on a hunting trip or down to the range to punch some holes in paper, you should always carry a first aid kit. In my range bag I carry an Individual First Aid Kit (IFAK) that is supplemented with a Res-Q Pack which includes two Quik-Clot hemostatic emergency dressings. This makes the perfect blow-out kit for a possible gunshot injury. Nobody ever goes out hunting, or to the range, expecting to get hurt but every year hundreds of accidents happen. If you’re going to be around guns, it’s a good idea to have a first aid bag with a blow-out kit. Hopefully you’ll never need it to treat an actual gunshot, but it’s nice to have for minor accidents too: I’ve been very glad I had some burn gel in my first aid kit after doing the “hot brass dance!”

Naturally, I added some extra items to all of my kits, customizing them to their anticipated roles. The home based kit is the most heavily augmented first aid kit. Along with the enormous inventory of the STOMP Mobile Field Hospital, I added the following items:

• Antihistamine (Benadryl)
• Ibuprofen
• Tylenol
• Immodium

Individual First Aid Kit (IFAK), perfect for a small portable emergency kit.

• Benzocaine
• Sudafed
• Neosporin
• Activated Charcoal (in case of poisoning)
• Rescue Inhaler (prescription)
• Epi-Pen
• Nitrile Gloves
• Permanent Marker and Notepad
• Blood Pressure Cuff
• Hand Warmers (instant heat pack)
• Duct Tape
• Super Glue
• Powdered Sports Drink
• Tampons and Maxi-Pads (un-scented and non-deodorized, these are sterile and excellent for staunching blood flow)
• Para-Cord
• Snake bite Kit
• Floss
• Q-Tips

The Master First Aid Kit I keep in the car is pretty well outfitted just as it comes, but I went ahead and added a Res-Q Pack to it along with some sunscreen, insect repellent, a flashlight, permanent marker, Para-Cord, duct tape, super glue, respirator, tampons, and an assortment of drugs including an antihistamine, epi-pen, and ibuprofen.

While most of these kits are heavily outfitted with gauze and bandages, I always add more. Gauze is one thing it seems that you can never have enough of. It is used to treat almost every type of bleeding wound, and so runs out quickly. Other items you may want to add to any first aid kit include an extra set of shears and a tourniquet (if the kit does not already have one). For some time, the use of a tourniquet was discouraged as it could lead to the loss of a limb. Modern emergency medical practice however has recognized the value of a tourniquet in reducing blood loss, despite the chance of losing the affected limb from over-tightening.

US Army Staff Surgeon Maj. Alec C. Beekley commented on his experience with the use of tourniquets saying, “It was my experience that if they came in with an extremity wound and they had a tourniquet on, they had a fighting chance. If they didn’t have a tourniquet, or they had a tourniquet that wasn’t effective, they died. I don’t know what other injuries they might have had, so I can’t say whether a good tourniquet would have made the difference. But soldiers who came in with tourniquets on, even if they were hard to resuscitate, they generally were able to survive.” As with many other items in your first aid kit, seek out specific training when it comes to the proper use of a tourniquet.

I wanted to know what other items people add to their kit, so we opened up our Facebook page and asked people what items they felt were indispensable for an individual first aid kit. There were a number of great suggestions, such as duct tape and super glue which is great for closing wounds when you don’t have sutures, and duct tape is fantastic for treating a sucking chest wound. A number of people, jokingly we felt, suggested alcohol. Denatured rubbing alcohol is often found in many first aid kits, but in fact potable ethanol such as Everclear or basically any high proof (150 proof or higher) alcohol does have a valid place in a first aid kit. Not only does it work as a sterilizing agent, but it can be used as a cooking fuel if necessary and, in an extreme emergency, as a relaxant or pain management tool. Don’t misunderstand, alcohol can be very dangerous due to the complications it brings when ingested by an individual suffering from acute trauma. Alcohol lowers blood pressure, thins the blood, depresses respiration and can increase the chances of a seizure; but when used by a trained first responder it can still be a valuable asset.

The best response to our Facebook query came from one of our fans 2xMakina, an admin on the PrivateAidAssociation.org Forums, who recommended the following when building a first aid kit from scratch:

1) Utility life: 3 days to a week, max. No long-term care capability beyond that.
2) Assumed that there MAY NOT BE definitive care to transport to — this is a Bugout Bag kit, not a Hiker’s kit. The stuff in here is when YOU are your ONLY medical resource and there IS no higher care to which to transport (a primary reason why stabilization measures such as oxygen, IV’s, adjunct airways, etc. are specifically and DELIBERATELY not included. When a patient is bad off enough to require these things, the amount of equipment and long-term care is cost- and weight-prohibitive, and having only small amounts of stabilization gear does not affect ultimate patient outcome under non-transport conditions. Not even a doctor can fully treat (not just stabilize) major trauma in the field without a significant amount of equipment — more than one human can carry.
3) This kit is designed to be integrated with the rest of the PAA BoB (Bugout Bag) system. Certain choices were made specifically to be used with other BoB components.
4) This kit was designed with the following four criteria in mind, attempting to balance them: a – utility for weight, b – integration, c – cost-effectiveness, and d – general availability. In other words, we also considered NOT single-sourcing ourselves for equipment; What good is having a standard if a critical component isn’t available anymore?

Bandages:
20 Sterile 4×4’s
10 Sterile 2×2’s
10 Sterile non-stick 3×4’s
5 Cling Rolls, 3-inch
5 Cling Rolls, 2-inch
2 Packages butterfly closures or steri-strips (minimum 10/pkg)
1 Box Band-Aids (Preferably flexible fabric)
5 Knuckle Band-Aids (can be in box of bandaids)
1 Package Moleskin
3 Unscented, non-deodorized feminine maxipads (Minimum – 6 maximum)
2 Rolls medical tape (1 of which preferably hypo-allergenic) 1 or 2 inch (your pref)
1 Ace or other elastic bandage

Antiseptics:
8 oz. Hibiclens (or other Chlorhexadine Topical)
8 oz. 75.5% Ethanol Alcohol – potable (EverClear-available in FL) — this is a multipurpose liquid: Antiseptic, Relaxant, and stove fuel if necssary — integrates with the rest of the PAA BoB (Bugout Bag) kit.

Medications:
10 Ibuprofen 200mg
10 Extra Strength Tylenol 500mg
10 Aspirin 325mg
10 Benadryl 25mg
10 Imodium AD 2mg
10 Antihistamine of your choice (Sudafed, Actifed, Zyrtec, Chlor-Trimoton, etc.)
0.45 Fl Oz Orajel (Benzocaine 20%)
10 Neosporin Neo To Go (1/32oz)
5 Day Supply of Your Emergency Medication (Keep in correct scrip bottle for legality — add sterile cotton to keep quiet if necessary)
1 Box Benadryl 25mg dissolving strips
1 Inhaler, Primatene Mist
20 Calcium carbonate chewable antacid tablets

Diagnostic Equipment:
1 Thermometer (preferably non-digital)
1 Penlight

Accessories:
1 Packet Q-tips (Travel Size)
Insect Repellent (Travel Size)
5 oz. Bullfrog Superblock Sunscreen (45spf)
1 stick Blistex Lip Balm (30spf)
1 Tweezers
1 Trauma Shears
4oz. Gold Bond Powder
3 NIOSH N95 respirators
4 Safety Pins (your choice of size/color/type etc.)
Notepad (Preferably Rite-in-the-rain)
Writing instrument
10 Pr (Minimum, Max 30pr) Nitrile non-sterile examination gloves

I’ll recommend adding the following items:

1) Some kind of cold medicine for suppressing cold symptoms — if you’re in the field solo or with someone else, cold symptoms will definitely slow them or you down to the point of limited function, and if you’re in an emergency situation, that could kill you. Have it. Pick one and go with it. Have enough for three days.

2) A sharpie marker, for writing things down on your patient or yourself…things like “tourniquet 3/6 at 1420 hrs” or “Bitten here 1100 hrs” or “Pedal Pulse Felt Here” or “Not this hand” or “Do NOT take blood pressure.” — this is kinda important, especially if it’s you and you’re losing consciousness.

Once you have assembled your components, examine the size and weight, and THEN choose a bag accordingly, not the other way around.

We should note that none of the information presented here by Cheaper Than Dirt! or any contributors should be construed in any way to constitute medical advice. Cheaper Than Dirt! and our contributors cannot be held for the use or misuse of any information presented here. You should seek out professional training and medical advice when putting together and learning how to use your first aid kit.

Having a well stocked first aid kit is just the beginning. Most states have “Good Samaritan” laws that partially protect individuals trying to render aid, but you should seek out training from the Red Cross or other organization and learn proper first aid procedures. Even if you have been trained in the past, it’s a good idea to seek out continuing education and refresher courses. Medical technology changes rapidly, and enrolling in a refresher course keeps you up to date on current modern practices.

Even if you have extensive training with your first aid kit, put a book on basic first aid in your kit. You never know who may be using it in an emergency, and you may be the one who is hurt. Depending on the injury, you may be unconscious or unable to communicate, making it impossible for you to instruct someone helping you. Go over the use of your kit with your family and members of your household. If you are out hunting, let your hunting partner know where your emergency kit is and how to use it. After all, the whole purpose of having one is to be prepared when emergencies happen, and you never know when the person who needs to be saved will be yourself.