Knife Anatomy 101: Blade Types

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Knives come in all shapes in sizes. Each description of the blade type actually refers to a specific shape design. Here's a quick visual guide to the various types and styles of a few of the most common folding knife blades.

Clip Blade

The clip blade is a classic shape and very practical. It's name describes a shape that seems to have a portion of the spine of the blade clipped off. This brings the blade point lower for extra control and enhances the sharpness of the tip. It provides ample "belly" in the blade for slicing or skinning and a good tip for inserting in and under things that need to be cut. You will often find a false edge with the clip point.

Drop Point Blade
The drop point is another classic shape with a spine that tapers downward toward the tip. This lowers the point for extra control and also leaves the strength. This profile is good for almost all cutting chores. This type of blade also has a good-sized belly for better slicing.

Tanto Blade
This knife blade was inspired by the shape of the Japanese sword blades. The point to this style blade is in line with the spine of the blade The tanto has a reinforced point which is thick and strong and is good for heavy duty stabbing cuts.

Spear Point Blade
The classic stabbing blade is the spear point which can have two edges sharpened or only one with a false edge on the spine. The spear point usually has both edges taper equally to a point that is exactly in the center of the blade but sometimes has different profiles for the spine and edge.

Sheepsfoot Blade
The spine of this blade curves downward to meet the edge. This leaves virtually no point. This type of blade typically has little or virtually no belly and is used mainly for slicing applications. It gives the most control, because the dull back edge is made to be held by fingers. Sheepsfoot knives are good for whittling.

Spey Blade
This blade is similar to a spear point but with one side curved and one side cut at a straight angle. With its blunt tip, the spey blade is excellent for skinning, since it offers the maximum safeguard against accidental puncture.

Modernizing and Accessorizing the Mosin Nagant

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It's probably the most popular military surplus rifle on the market today. Ammunition for it is cheap and plentiful, and how can you pass up a rifle you can buy for less than $100? Yes, I'm talking about the Mosin Nagant. These century old rifles can be found in abundance in gun stores, pawn shops, and gun shows across the country. Most for around $90 - $100. That's right, for just $200 you can buy a functioning rifle and a spam can of 440 rounds of ammunition. It's hard to find a better deal than that.

But, let's face it. This rifle is at least 55 years old, and many are pushing 100. It is not a modern sporting rifle by any stretch of the imagination, but it can be affordably upgraded to take modern optics and accessories.

Probably the most common question we get is from customers who want to mount a scope on their Mosin Nagant. By and large, most Mosin Nagants were only designed to be used with the factory iron sights. Some rare sniper versions were made and outfitted with optics, but these are fairly expensive and difficult to find. Your typical 91-30 Mosin was not designed with optics in mind, but it can be upgraded. Our most popular conversion is the Mosin Nagant scope mount from Advanced Technology. It includes a new bolt to convert your straight handled bolt to a more modern bent bolt. While this kit does require some skill in gunsmithing, an individual with a rudimentary knowledge of the art will be able to install the kit with minimal effort. This Mosin scope mount kit includes everything needed to mount the scope rail, including hardware drill bits and a tap.

After fitting your Mosin for a scope, you may find the century old wooden stock to be somewhat lacking. Older wooden stocks are often cracked, and modern glass-filled nylon replacements represent a significant reduction in weight and recoil. Advanced Technology manufactures a synthetic stock for the Mosin Nagant that is quite literally a drop in installation. You'll likely spend longer removing the barrel bands from your old wooden stock than you will fitting the barrel and action into this new sleek Monte Carlo style stock. It's a tight fit, so take your time and work carefully.

The new Monte Carlo stock features proper sling swivel mounts, so you'll no longer be relegated to using the traditional "dog collar" style sling mounts. The new synthetic stock is also perfectly suited for use in the field as it is incredibly durable and waterproof. This makes it ideal for hunting, where all types of weather conditions may be encountered. Of course if hunting is your goal, you may find the camouflage version of the stock more suitable for your rifle. This stock from Advanced Technology comes in Mossy Oak Break-Up camouflage and is also a "drop-in fit" stock that requires no gunsmithing.

Not all accessories for the Mosin Nagant are new technology. Some traditional items are still incredibly useful for operating your vintage rifle. Stripper clips in 7.62x54R make reloading your rifle quick and easy, and they are convenient ammunition storage devices as well. Most ammunition for the Mosin is older military surplus rounds. A broken shell extractor is a very useful tool which can quickly restore your rifle to service should an old cartridge suffer a case head separation which may otherwise render your rifle useless.

The Mosin Nagant is a classic rifle once used by nations throughout the world. The fact that it is still in use by some military units is a testament to the versatility and durability of this old warhorse. Still, time marches on and there are a number of ways you can upgrade and sporterize your classic war rifle, turning it into an effective and accurate hunting arm. Once properly oufitted, you'll find your old Mosin looks ready to go for yet another 100 years.

ModGear Tactical Magazine Chest Rig

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Our Tactical Magazine Chest Rig is outfitted with many features that make it a great value for those needing a modular vest with integral magazine pouches.

By taking a cue from the SOTech’s BLoCS and adding a padded harness and a sewn- in hydration bladder pocket, the Tactical Magazine Chest Rig supports a full combat load of ammunition without adding a single pouch.

The front opening rack secures with snaps and hook and loop closures. The removable bib secures to the top of the rack by hook and loop and to the harness via straps with snaps. The harness attaches to the front of the rack with two side release buckles, and at the rear with three adjustable straps with ladderlocs on each side. The Removable bib also features PALS webbing and an internal pocket.

The harness features a built in drag handle that tucks out of the way with a small piece of hook and loop above the Hydration bladder pocket. The Hydration pocket secures with hook and loop and the lid has a small piece of hook and loop tape perfect for morale patches or name tapes.

The internal map pockets also ingeniously double as a mesh lining for the magazine rack system.

The six built in magazine pouches can hold the standard M16 magazine or AK mags. Some of our customers have even used it for 10/22 and M14 magazines. Magazine retention is accomplished by holding most of the magazine deep pocket in the and is backed up by a bungee cord retention strap.

This rig is very adjustable and can be adapted to either fit over your body armor or be worn as a stand-alone rig.

This vest has rugged construction far beyond its price point, with nice stitching and quality material. There are enough MOLLE compatible PALS type webbing on this carrier to add any and all pouches you would ever need. There are 3 rows and 9 columns on each side of the rack and 3 rows and 4 columns on the bib. The Harness shoulder area has 2 rows and 3 columns and the hydration pouch has 5 columns and 6 rows.

There are some drawbacks to this chest rig. Any heavy pouches attacked to the MOLLE compatible webbing on the rack may sag if there is no magazine behind that pouch in the internal magazine pocket. This is only noticeable with the heaviest of items and only when the magazine is removed. It is also not available in MultiCam at this time.

Helping to Choose A Concealed Carry Handgun For a New Shooter

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If you're a handgun owner and you have friends who are not, you may often find yourself looked to as an expert on the subject. A common question I find myself faced with by new shooters is: "I want to get a handgun for concealed carry and personal protection. What should I get?" It's a very personal question, with no one right answer. There is a very good reason there is such a broad selection of handguns on the market, and that is that different people look for different qualities in a defensive firearm.

The first thing a new shooter should do is become familiar with pistols in general. One major mistake experienced shooters make is recommending their personal favorite firearm as the gun of choice for a new shooter. I can't tell you how many times I've been at the range and seen a husband encouraging his wife to try out his .357 Magnum snub nosed revolver. Don't get me wrong - small hammerless big bore revolvers are carried by thousands of women. But starting a new shooter off with such a firearm can be a mistake. When dealing with a new shooter, start small with something like a Ruger .22 pistol so that they can get used to practicing proper shooting technique. Firearms are intimidating, and starting a newbie off with a fire-belching magnum is a sure-fire way to intimidate them so much that they conclude that they are incapable of handling a firearm.

Once your new shooter is comfortable with a .22, step up to a soft shooting .380, 9mm, or .38 Special. Try a wide variety of handguns and let them find out what they like as well as what they don't like. A shooter looking for their first carry pistol should find one that fits them well. Grip size, grip angle, overall weight and balance, muzzle length, and caliber all play into this complex equation. Be sure to consider the human factor: how intuitively can they manipulate the handguns controls? Is the safety easy to reach? What about the magazine or cylinder release? All of these things contribute to the overall suitability of a pistol to a particular shooter. There's no set equation for figuring out what pistol fits best - you've got to take some for a test drive.

Most pistol ranges have a variety of handguns that can be rented for a small fee. Don't bother renting full size handguns - these are usually not suitable for concealed carry. Stick with compact and subcompact firearms. Try a variety of actions and calibers. Don't place too much emphasis on finding a large caliber pistol. While a .357 Sig or .357 Magnum may be your choice as the best carry caliber, it may be a handful for a novice shooter. The ability to maintain consistent and accurate shot placement is far more important than the "stopping power" of any particular caliber. As instructor Greg Hamilton said, "Do you know how to double the effectiveness of any bullet? Put another round through your target." Two .25 ACP rounds that land solid hits on the target are much more effective than two misses with a .357 Magnum.

Consider also the price and availability of your ammunition. Practice is key to maintaining proficiency with any firearm. Your new shooter may love their .380 subcompact, but with the current ammunition shortage, will they be able to find enough .380 at a reasonable price to practice with? Many pistol models are available in a variety of calibers. If your new shooter falls in love with that Sig 229 in .357 Sig, but you're concerned with ammo availability, have them try a Sig 229 in .40 S&W instead.

The overall reliability of a handgun is also very important. Many handguns are picky about what type of ammunition they will digest. Ask your local range if you can try some standard pressure defensive rounds through their rental guns. Most ranges will gladly let you give it a test drive if you purchase the ammunition there (most will not let you run +P high pressure rounds). In addition to their ability to feed ammunition, some firearms are simply more reliable than others. Talk to an experienced shooter or range master about the reliability of the pistol your new shooter is considering for purchase. Pistols that are carried regularly are exposed to all manner of fouling media. Lint, dirt, and dust can collect on the pistol, and rust can be an issue in high humidity environments or during the summer. Some handguns are simply better suited for concealed carry. Look for polymer, stainless steel, or other frames that will resist moisture, dirt, and dust.

Once a new shooter has settled on what gun is right, the pocket book comes into play. Firearms are not cheap as a general rule, and it's possible to find that the right pistol for your new shooter is out of their budget. If that is the case, talk to your local firearm dealer about layaway plans, or consider buying used. Many manufacturers like Sig Sauer offer factory certified used firearms that come with an excellent warranty and are priced at a significant discount. If a factory certified used firearm isn't a possibility, have a gunsmith inspect the potential purchase. They can spot excessive wear and abuse and can tell how well a used handgun has been cared for.

Finally, once the new purchase has been made, practice! Practice is critical to being able to properly employ a firearm in a self defense situation, so continue to encourage a new shooter to accompany you to the range and practice with their new pistol. If they've chosen a handgun that suits them well, practice will be an enjoyable pastime that the two of you can spend together.

Choosing the Right Clothing for Carrying a Concealed Handgun

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Many customers of Cheaper Than Dirt! legally carry concealed handguns. But often, we get questions on the best way to carry concealed. While holster selection is important, equally as important is the clothing you choose to wear.

It's important to note that if your carry method is uncomfortable, or if it is a struggle to keep your firearm concealed, more often than not concealed carry licensees will instead choose to leave their firearm at home. Therefore, special consideration must be given to the method of carry and the clothing used to conceal your firearm.

Carrying a concealed firearm in the winter is usually not a problem. Heavy winter garments provide a number of ways in which you can easily conceal a firearm. But when indoors, or in warmer weather, keeping a firearm concealed can be problematic unless you have an appropriate wardrobe.

Remember - the whole idea of carrying concealed is to not have your firearm detectable. What's more, you don't want to advertise that you might have a concealed firearm by wearing the ubiquitous tactical vest or fanny pack. While these methods are fantastic for concealing a firearm, they are also universally recognized as being worn by individuals who are armed. The same goes for most tactical BDU-style cargo pants and tactical style shirts.

So, how do you conceal your handgun without looking like some suburban tactical operator?

First, let's take a look at pants. Many who carry concealed use an Inside-the-Waistband-Holster (IWB). These style of holsters fit between the waistband of your pants and your body, holding the firearm very close to your body. Having a firearm carried in this fashion reduces the chance of "printing" (having the outline of the gun show through your clothing). But using an IWB means that the waist size of your pants will have to be slightly larger. I find that pants one size up (ie: 36" waist instead of 34") help to accommodate the extra bulk of having a firearm tucked in your waistband. Tactical style pants such as Tru-Spec's 24-7 Ripstop Pants are great for carrying a concealed handgun. They feature elastic comfort stretch waistband, and have lots of pockets for spare magazines and a tactical flashlight. The best part is that they don't scream "Tactical" - instead, they have the appearance of more conservative Docker-style khaki pants.

If you choose to wear jeans or slacks, pay attention to the construction of the waistband and belt loops. Make sure that they are sturdy enough to bear the extra weight and strain of a holster. When choosing a belt, you will also need to select a sturdy belt that can stand up to the extra work. This Ranger Belt by Triple K is a great example. It is specifically designed with belt holsters in mind, but it is still stylishly designed so that you can wear it anywhere.

Your upper garment takes a bit more time and consideration to choose properly. If you are carrying a compact handgun in a "tuckable" holster, you will have more leeway in your choices. Tuckable holsters are IWB holsters that have belt clips which allow a shirt to be tucked in, concealing the handgun. Still, this method does not usually work as well with full size autos.

In the summertime especially, selecting an appropriate cover garment can be difficult. My standard summer carry method is a t-shirt tucked in, a handgun in an IWB holster, and a loose-fitting Hawaiian-style shirt over that. Something nondescript with longer shirt tails for better concealment, such as our Tru-Spec 24-7 Field Shirt would also work fine. Again, I usually purchase shirts one size larger than normal. A good cover garment should hang 5" - 8" below the waistline of your pants in order to adequately conceal your firearm while kneeling, bending, or reaching up.

When choosing a shirt for a cover garment, pay close attention to the fabric thickness and color. Light-weight and loose-weave fabrics can print easily, and some are so thin that they will even show a visible outline of the firearm. Light-colored fabrics can also show the darker outline of a firearm. In the summer, look for fabrics like linen or cotton which will not only keep you cool, but will also be able to conceal your handgun.

Choosing to carry a concealed firearm is a big responsibility. Part of that responsibility is following your state's laws on keeping your firearm concealed, and that means choosing your clothing carefully. It may take a few additions to your wardrobe, but with these tips and a few extra pieces of clothing you will have no problem carrying concealed, no matter what the weather or occasion.

Cleaning Your Molle Gear

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You've got the gear, you've assembled your kit, gone out into the field, and now you're back, and your gear is covered with all manner of dirt, mud, leaves and brush. How do you safely clean your MOLLE gear?

Odor Lock is a great soap to use on any MOLLE gear you use for hunting

Regularly cleaning your MOLLE gear helps it last longer. Dirt and soil left in the fabric rub and abrade the material, causing it to fray and weaken prematurely. Plus, who wants to haul around dirt gear anyway?

Start by brushing off loose dirt and plant material. Remove any leaves, twigs, grass, and burrs from the equipment. Scrape off any dirt and mud dried or caked on using a dulled tool - sharp tools will cut and abrade the fabric, weakening it. Then, wipe off loose dirt and dust using a microfiber cloth.

Wash your gear in warm (not hot!) soapy water using a mild detergent (the US military recommends using NSN 7930-00-929-1221) such as a liquid dish soap or a small amount of liquid laundry detergent. Immerse the gear completely and let it soak for a few minutes. Then, gently work the fabric back and forth to help loosen dirt trapped in the fabric.

For stubborn stains or where soil has been ground into the fabric, use a soft bristled brush such as a toothbrush to gently scrub. Never use stiff brushes, abrasives, bleach or solvents as they will cause discoloration and damage to the fabric and plastics.

Rinse your gear in clean water. Make sure to thoroughly and completely get all of the soap out.

Push the fabric back into its original shape, and set it out to dry in the shade.

NEVER DRY YOUR MOLLE GEAR IN A HEATED DRYER! Hang it out in the shade, not in the sun. Drying it in the sun can cause it to fade and shrink. Exposing your MOLLE gear to the tumbling of a dryer wears it out faster, and the heat can shrink it. For the same reason, do not use a washing machine as the agitator will cause unnecessary wear and tear. Always air dry your gear, don't use heat to speed up the drying process.

Keeping your gear clean maximizes it's useful life by reducing the wear and tear of dirt on the fabric. Take care of your gear, and your gear will take care of you!

MOLLE Gear

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It's the new, popular, modular pack system. Every new "tactical" item has it. What am I talking about? MOLLE systems of course. MOLLE (Modular Lightweight Load-carrying Equipment) webbing is the US Army replacement for the older ALICE system, and it's technological superiority has garnered it wide acceptance amongst military, police, and civilians. MOLLE systems are based off of the Pouch Attachment Ladder System, "PALS". The PALS webbing features 1" wide straps run horizontally and spaced 1" apart, with 1.5" gaps between attachment points.

Adaptation from the ALICE system to the MOLLE system began in 1994 when the US Army began having difficulties with the ALICE system in the sand and dust of the first Gulf War. The ALICE system, which had been around since the Vietnam War utilized small ALICE clips to attach modular components. The clips were easy to lose, they broke, and the wear and tear on them was accelerated by the sand and dust of Iraq, Kuwait, and Saudi Arabia.

Development of the new pack system took place at the U.S. Army Soldier Systems Center in Natick, MA. Development by the the Center for Military Biomechanics Research (CMBR) focused on extensive biometric studies examining the most efficient methods for heavy loads to be carried by the human body. Research showed that the taller commercial off-the-shelf (COTS) packs using internal frames reduced the energy soldiers used while carrying a standard 75lb load. In addition, the COTS packs promoted better posture and had an overall better load placement than the older ALICE system

The internal frame COTS pack was rejected as a replacement for the ALICE pack due, in part, to its excessive heat retention. A similar volume configuration was incorporated into the design of the Modular Lightweight Load Carrying Equipment (MOLLE) pack. Other biomechanically advantageous characteristics, such as a load-distributing waist belt, were also used in the MOLLE design.

MOLLE systems are based around a load-bearing vest known as an FLC (Fighting Load Carrier) and a pack with an external frame. The FLC was designed to replace the web belt and suspenders that made up the ALICE system's Load Bearing Equipment (LBE). MOLLE has some distinct advantages over the older ALICE system in that it is worn instead of carried. MOLLE systems are almost completely made from fabric and contain no metal clips or hooks like the ALICE system did. Those hooks and clips would inevitably find a way to poke and dig into the skin of the soldier carrying an ALICE pack.

Quick release systems built into the pack allow the wearer to quickly drop the equipment if necessary. The vest features an H harness in the back that functions to prevent the buildup of body heat. Vests also have plate carriers for ceramic ballistic plates.

Load bearing belts integrated into the MOLLE vest help distribute the weight more evenly to the hips instead of having it all on the shoulders. They also serve as attachment points for more accessories such as drop-leg webbing and holsters. The advantage of the MOLLE system holsters is that they can be attached to a vest, belt, pack, or drop leg webbing. In fact, any MOLLE item can be attached to almost any other MOLLE item because of the modularity of the system. This is one of the distinct advantages of the MOLLE system. Components can be placed in thousands of unique configurations to adapt for any role, load, or body type.

Every pouch in the MOLLE system has D-rings for attaching slings for dragging or shoulder carry.

But for all its advantages, the MOLLE system encountered bumps along the way to full acceptance by the military.

Internal frames were studied for use on the MOLLE pack, but were put aside in favor of an external frame due to excess heat retention of the internal frame. Instead of the aluminum frame of the ALICE system, researchers decided instead on a custom-molded plastic frame. The plastic frame soon proved to have some serious pitfalls. Frames frequently cracked and broke from the strain of a combat environment.

Zippers also proved problematic. The first zippers used on the MOLLE system were too weak and burst if packs were overloaded.

The Army gradually made changes to the system, upgrading zippers, and transitioning to a stronger and more comfortable frame system utilizing the same plastic used to manufacture automobile bumpers.

Almost anything with PALS-style webbing is generally referred to as MOLLE, but there are differences. The US Marines currently use a system very similar to the US Army MOLLE system known as the ILBE (Improved Load Bearing Equipment) as they were dissatisfied with the improvements of the US Army in fixing the flaws in the MOLLE system. The ILBE still uses the PALS webbing and shares many of the same attributes as the MOLLE, including a load bearing vest and belt.

While developing the ILBE, the USMC implemented new load ratings for the system that are similar to the ratings specified US Army FM 21-18 manual.

Assault Load
The Assault Load is a very minimal load consisting of little more than the bare necessities required to sustain an assault, such as water, ammunition, and grenades. Maximum assault load weight is one at which a Marine can engage in combat while having a minimal effect on combat effectiveness.

Approach March Load
The Approach March load is designed to give a Marine enough equipment for a full day of combat with daily re-supply. This Maximum approach march load weight is one at which a Marine can engage in combat while being able to maintain at least 90% combat effectiveness.

Existence Load
The Existence Load is the maximum load a Marine will be loaded with while still able to conduct maneuvers. This load is only designed to be carried from a deployment to the assembly area.

The Marines also designed the ILBE to:

• Include a quick-detach patrol pack


• Carry at least 120 pounds


• Limit maximum pack size to 6000 cubic inches


• Carry 60mm mortar shells as well as 81mm mortar shells outside the main pack

There are a number of attachment systems used with the MOLLE and ILBE systems. First is the Natick Snap, which utilizes a plastic reinforced strap with a snap to secure it. The Malice clip is another system that uses a semi-permanent polymer clip which interweaves like the Natick. The semi-permanent clip can be removed using a screwdriver or other flat-tipped tool. In addition to these two systems, there are any number of "Weave and Tuck" systems that use interwoven straps which are then fastened to the backing of the pouch after attachment. Grimlock keepers are also available to make your MOLLE and ALICE gear compatible.

Since it exploded onto the market, manufacturers have designed and built a seemingly endless stream of MOLLE and PALS-compatible products. There is, quite literally, nearly anything you can think of in a MOLLE setup. From iPod/iPhone holders to flashlight holders, hydration packs to radio pouches, EMT pouches and even corsets have been designed with MOLLE-compatible PALS webbing.

Suffice to say - if you can think of it, there's probably a way to attach it to your MOLLE gear.

Inside the Waistband Holster

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One of the frequent questions we get here at Cheaper Than Dirt! comes from customers seeking ways to carry their pistols. There are quite literally dozens of ways to securely carry a firearm, but today we're going to address one of the most common: the Inside the Waistband Holster.

Inside the waistband holsters (often referred to as an IWB holster) are holsters that, as the name implies, keep the pistiol tucked inside your pants or shorts, between your waistband and your body. They usually have some sort of belt clip that keeps the holster attached to your belt or waistband in order to prevent the holster from slipping down.

IWB holster users generally fall into two categories: Love 'em or Hate 'em. Not many people are ambivalent about them. Of those who despise IWB holsters, the comfort factor tends to play a big role. These users just can't abide having the holster digging into their side for the better part of a day. Comfort is a huge factor when choosing a holster. If it's uncomfortable, most people will stop using it or stop carrying their firearm all together. Obviously, a firearm is useless if you don't have it with you. Fans of the IWB holster tend to laud the concealability of firearms carried in this manner. They also love the fact that, being so closely carried to the body, it is more difficult for any potential bad guy to disarm you.

There are three main types of IWB holsters: Leather, Kydex or Plastic, and Nylon. Leather and nylon tend to be the most comfortable of the three, but they have the disadvantage of collapsing after the pistol is drawn, making reholstering more difficult. Kydex and plastic holsters are rigid and hold their shape even when the gun is drawn, but can become uncomfortable during extended use due to the firm unyielding material. Depending on your body type, IWB holsters can be even more uncomfortable due to the the way it is held so close to your body and the pressure of your waistband and belt.


Leather holsters are often the most comfortable of IWB holsters. Holsters such as Bianchi's Professional Inside-the-Pants holster are immensely popular with undercover law enforcement, private investigators, and civilians who conceal on a regular bases. It does an excellent job of concealment by carrying the pistol low with the butt of the gun barely peeking above the waistline. If you choose to wear a leather IWB holster, be aware that extended use during the heat and humidity of summer can cause the holster to retain moisture from sweat, possibly damaging the pistol. Because of the proximity of the firearm to your body, you will want to clean and oil your handgun more often, usually once a week or more, in order to clean out salts, lint, rust, and to re-oil.

Despite their drawbacks, IWB holsters are one of the easiest ways to carry concealed. Many are even known as "tuckable" holsters and have features that allow you to carry your pistol in the IWB holster and tuck in your shirt at the same time. Our Ace Case Tuckable holster is one of these. It features a leather panel that has a belt clip attached to it that allows the wearer to tuck their shirt in between the panel and the main body of the holster, as illustrated by the photo at left. As you can see from the photo, the belt clip is still visible, but the firearm itself is neatly concealed.

If you choose to use an IWB holster, there are a few things you can do to make it work better for you. First, select pants slightly larger than your normal size. This provides the extra room for your firearm, and decreases stretching and wear and tear on the garment. Make sure your shirt, vest, or jacket you use to conceal the firearm is cut a little long. The bottom of your cover garment should hang at least 6 inches below your belt.

Whether you go with leather, nylon, or kydex, an IWB holster will provide you with an efficient way to carry concealed. IWB holsters may not be for everybody, but that's just the nature of holsters in general. Ask any old gunny, and they'll tell you that somewhere they've got a box of old holsters that they ended up not liking for some reason or another. Me? I've carried in a kydex IWB holster for the better part of a decade. Obviously IWB works for me. It just might work for you too.