TAPCO G2 Double Hook AK-47 Trigger

The TAPCO G2 Double Hook AK-47 Trigger is probably one of the best upgrades you can make to your AK-47. Combat rifles such as the AK have notoriously sloppy triggers that require upwards of 10 lbs of trigger-pull. To make matters worse, many of the Com-Block semi-automatic rifles imported here have a hump on the back of the disconnector that creates the horrible trigger slap of many of these imports.

This guide walks you through the process of installing the G2 Double Hook AK-47 on a Romanian SAR-1 rifle. While the particulars of this install pertain to the Romanian SAR-1, they also apply to most other AK-47 semi-automatic imports, including most Yugoslavian models and Saigas chambered in 7.62×39. This particular trigger set should also fit both stamped and milled receivers. That being said: gunsmithing is required. We do not recommend that any of the procedures described here be performed by anyone but a qualified gunsmith.

The first step is to disassemble your AK according to TAPCO’s Instruction Manual. Always unload and clear any firearm completely before beginning to disassemble it.

With your disassembled rifle, lets compare the individual components to check for areas that may need filing or grinding for proper fitment. First, lets take a look at the trigger itself. Here, we compare the Century Arms trigger as installed on a Romanian SAR-1. Note that on the TAPCO the rear of the trigger has much more material than the Century trigger. It should also be noted that the TAPCO trigger uses a larger pivot hole that requires a bushing (included in the TAPCO kit) to slide over the pin.

The disconnector that is used on the Century trigger group has much more material on the rear of the part. Why Century decided to cast the part in this way is beyond us, but the result is horrible trigger slap. The TAPCO disconnector uses the traditional Com-block design and does not have the additional hump of metal.

Our Romanian SAR-1 has a single hook trigger design. Because of this, the receiver only has one notch for the trigger hook. We took a Dremel rotary tool and a medium stone to grind out a matching notch on the other side of the trigger slot. Be careful while grinding, go slowly, and don’t apply very much pressure – let the stone do the work for you. In this photo you can see that our stone slipped out of the notch and marred the finish a bit. Not a huge deal, but perhaps a bit more care while grinding could have prevented this.

After test fitting our trigger in the modified slot, we noticed some flashing left over from the mold in which the trigger was cast was interfering with the operation of the trigger. We ground this bit of metal off the front and the back of the trigger, taking a little bit at a time and test fitting in between grinds until it was just right.

At this point we reassembled the rifle to dry fire it and cycle the action a few times to check it for functionality and reliability. One problem quickly arose: the trigger would stick after being pulled and would not reset. A closer inspection revealed that the hooks were sticking in the notches. It wasn’t that the notches weren’t long enough, but it seemed that the hooks were grabbing on the sides of the trigger slot, like it wasn’t quite wide enough. So, we disassembled the rifle again and broke out the dremel one more time to take off just a tiny amount of material from the sides of the trigger slot.

After reassembling the rifle one last time, everything worked flawlessly. Instead of a creeping heavy combat trigger, we had a crisp clean trigger with very little creep. The action cycled well, and range testing showed that the rifle was just as reliable, and a whole lot more accurate.

Considering an AK-47 purchase?

This article is intended to help the first time AK buyer get the needed information to make an informed purchase of an AK-47 or AK-74 rifle.

This is not for the current AK owner and collector, and as such, you may feel unchallenged by this information. That’s OK. We still love to have you here. Feel free to read along with us anyway.

Of course, we are only talking about purchasing the semi-automatic version of the “Automatic Kalashnikov Model 47″ or AK-47, which can go by many trade names and designations, but is a rose by any other name.

Today’s semi-automatic AK market is flooded with Kalashnikovs ranging from marginal to excellent quality. You may find that the deciding factor is your “hip-pocket national bank” (your wallet). We can work with you as well as the guy with deep pockets who is ready to buy but just needs a push in the right direction. Let’s begin.

Some Basics

The AK-47 and AK-74 rifles are by far the most produced modern small arms in the world. Some estimates are as high as 100 million copies. In addition, they are quite the “bad-boy” of the firearms world. There is good reason for this. The AK has earned the reputation by many armies for being an extremely reliable weapon under all possible conditions. This is a good thing. Since it is such a good weapon, and the full auto version is relatively cheap on the international black market, many find it to be their weapon of choice, especially gangs and drug traffickers, not to mention terrorists in all parts of the world. Also, the US military has faced the AK-47 in just about every conflict from Vietnam to the present day. Thus, the “bad-boy” reputation. You should have already gotten over the “not invented here” syndrome or you would not be thinking about buying one to start with. Believe it or not, and much to their loss, many suffer from this malady.

To keep a mental tab on how long the AK has been in service, the AK-47 was introduced in 1947 and the AK-74 in 1974. Pretty easy to remember, huh? Actually, this method of model numbering is common to the European world where the rifle is simply named after the year it was designed or introduced.

The 7.62×39mm round has good stopping power and can be favorably compared to the .30-30 cartridge. 7.62×39mm is plentiful in that countless ship loads of ammo have been brought into the US over the last 20 years, to the extent it is virtually a universal cartridge. The AK-74 5.45×39mm round is a bit less well known. It is essentially the Soviet answer to the 5.56 NATO round. It is available, but not to the extent of the 7.62×39mm. For this reason, it may be best not to consider the AK-74 in this caliber. The same rifle is available in 5.56 NATO for those who would find that convenient. Editor’s Comment: The best bet for your first AK is the original .30 caliber (7.62×39mm) AK-47.

Magazines have been brought in over the years to the tune of millions, undoubtedly. The basic AK-47 mag is the steel, 30 round “banana clip.” While these have gone up in price over the years, used surplus and unissued condition magazines are still available for under $20. The great thing about AK mags is the demand is so high they are being made new right here in the US! These are mostly the synthetic variety and most are of high quality and very usable. However, the very best synthetics are from places like Bulgaria which produces the “waffle mag” with the “Circle 10″ arsenal mark at the bottom. Highly recommended if you go synthetic. Of course, all the synthetic mags are impervious to rust (not including the springs) and are very robust. East German and Polish steel mags are about the best. There is a whole world of information in identifying AK mags as they all are similar. Perhaps we will also add that information in the future. Editor’s Comment: The number one recommendation is the military surplus, 30 round, steel, banana magazine.

Rifles are available in two major receiver groups: milled and stamped. This is where you must decide if you want to go high or low dollar. Just about any milled AK is going to be on the pricey side. That’s just the way the market is. Not to say that some of the stamped receivers are going to be cheap either. But, generally speaking, the milled variety is going to cost you more. To explain the difference between the two, the milled receiver starts life as a solid chunk of quality steel and is put through numerous machining stages until there is a finished monobloc receiver. That’s the primary reason for the greater cost; all the machine work. The stamped receivers are, just as the term implies, stamped out of a flat sheet of steel and then formed in a series of bending operations until the final box-shaped receiver is completed. Of course, there are added operations for the stamped receiver such as adding the front and rear trunions, spot welding the bolt carrier rails to the inside, and installing a number of heavy rivets that are the trademark of the stamped AK receiver. A fairly recent improvement to the stamped AK is the development of the heavy 1.6mm steel receiver. This produces a receiver that is almost as rigid as the milled but without all the intricate milling operations. This is probably the one to buy if you are considering the stamped variety. However, there is something aesthetically pleasing about the solid chunk of steel on the milled receiver. Let your pocket book be your guide. Editor’s comment. For your first AK-47, go with the stamped steel receiver, either the 1mm or the improved 1.6mm. It is every bit as serviceable as the milled and will more than likely cost you a bunch less. Look at one of the Romanian models (1mm receiver) for around $400-$500. Be sure it accepts the standard double stack hi-capacity magazine, however.

Manufacture

Let’s face it; the days of importing a complete, functioning AK-47 into the US are over. This basically ended in March 14, 1989 when President G. H.W. Bush created an Executive Order banning the import of 43 different semi-automatic rifles. This is where the term “pre-ban” started and is still in use almost 20 years later. If you want one of these pre-ban rifles, by all means get one. The thing to keep in mind is they cost-a-plenty. We are talking in the realm of $1K to $2K or better. That’s great if you have the money. You can be assured of getting a quality rifle if you buy a Norinco, Polytech, Valmet, Maadi, Hungarian, Bulgarian, Yugoslavian, or any other such available, pre-ban, imported AK- 47. You may find yourself owning something so nice that you will be afraid to shoot it! Especially one that is still new in box (NIB). Don’t be afraid to shoot it unless you just want to keep it for posterity’s sake or as an investment. But, that is not what this article is focusing on. We are looking at buying a shooter.

US manufacturers are producing their AK’s from imported “parts kits.” These are complete, fully functioning, select fire, AK-47 rifles that were demilled in the country of origin (or possibly the US importer) to conform to BATFE specs. This means cutting and removing the receiver between the front and rear trunions and carefully removing all the small parts to be shipped forward for import. Recently, the BATFE has even restricted the import of barrels from these kits. That’s just another part that has to be replaced with a US-made unit which in turn ratchets-up the cost of the finished rifle. These import restrictions have been successfully overcome by many AK makers as the demand is there to justify doing all the work of producing the receivers and barrels here in the US. As a matter of fact, there is one company that produces an absolutely outstanding “Bulgarian” AK made right here in the USA!

Price isn’t always a true judge of quality, but most of these quality AK’s are going to run at least $750. The old phrase, “You get what you pay for” runs true here. You cannot cut corners and have a first class firearm. However, fear not, you can get a quality AK at reasonable prices. There are many Romanian AK’s out there that are certainly worth owning for around $400-$500. Fit and finish on these may not be the absolute best, but they are complete and functional AK’s that will serve you well. You would be cautioned to make a close check of the front sight tower (FST) if you decide to go this route. We have seen many FST’s on Romanian and Yugoslav AK’s that are not properly aligned (canted left or right) and need to be set straight before you can have a successful shooting adventure. If you special order one sight unseen, you may have to resort to having a gunsmith perform this service for you if it comes in canted.

Furniture

The decision to buy an AK comes with several choices, one being “furniture.” Furniture is the firearms term for the buttstock, pistol grip, and handguards. However odd it may sound, it is the accepted term to refer to the exterior parts of the rifle other than the barrel and receiver. Furniture is divided into two major groups: wood and synthetic. Both are equally good.

Wood Furniture

The Soviet AK started with wood furniture. This would be the way to go if you want a traditional AK-47. There are a variety of woods to choose from as well as laminated woods. The laminated wood is probably the best choice for overall durability. You can go with original Soviet bloc wood or go with one of the many US made stock sets. If you buy an AK and want to change-out the furniture for any reason, that is easily done. You may buy a synthetic furniture AK and want to go wood, or vice versa. Or, you may have a blond Hungarian stock set and want to change to walnut. It’s easy to do. These sets are available prefinished and ready to install or ready to apply the finish you desire. One very popular fad is to duplicate the red toned Russian finish with a gloss topcoat. Looks very nice on any AK.

Synthetic Furniture

Synthetic AK furniture came along sometime in the late 60’s or early 70’s. East Germany may have been the first to use a plastic furniture set. This is known as the “pebble finish” and was medium brown in color. This is not the most robust choice of furniture as it appears to be more of a PVC plastic as opposed to the later, tougher, glass filled nylon, but you may like the look. Later came the black synthetic furniture by the Bulgarians. Some people like the all black AK look the best. Easily accomplished if you want to change to that look. Synthetic furniture sets are now available in OD green, Plum, and black to name a few. You may even find them in various camouflaged patterns. Stencils for doing your own multi-color camo paint job are available as well. Also, you may buy your AK with standard AK length buttstock or in the longer “US” version, which adds about 1-1/4 inch to the overall length, which is more comfortable for most US shooters.

Folding Stocks

AK’s offer several buttstock options other than fixed position. You can find an under folder, a right side folder, or a left side folder. These are now legal to own since the sunset of the Clinton 1994 – 2004 gun ban. If you want to leave tradition behind, you can also buy an AK with an AR-15 style collapsible buttstock. The under folder is perhaps the most recognizable version, but the side folders have certainly been around for a while. Side folders come in either the triangular shape which approximates the basic shape of the wooden buttstock, or, you can find what is called a “wire stock” which is a single rod extending from the rear trunion to the terminus at the buttplate. This is also called a “crutch” folder since it resembles the end of the crutch that goes under the armpit. All are good, just depends on what blows your skirt up. The beauty of the side folders is that they can be retrofitted to a conventional buttstock AK with little work. The underfolder is an underfolder for life.

Barrel Length

You will find that the majority of the AK’s out there have barrels that are 16.1 inches long. This is true to the original concept and has held constant since introduced. Of course, like all military weapons, there is always a use for shorter and longer barrel versions. Short barrel AK rifles fall into the NFA area and are restricted from private ownership without the BATFE tax stamp and NFA paperwork. Legal ownership is not insurmountable, but most guys don’t want to go through the process. One alternative is to get a Krinkov AK-47 (AKSU) which was designed with a 10 inch barrel, and that has been modified by adding a fake “can” or suppressor that is permanently attached. You can have the best of both worlds; short barrel rifle and legal. As long as the barrel and attachment have an overall length of 16 inches, you are good to go. Keep in mind, barrel length is measured from the bolt face in the ready-to-fire position to the very end of the barrel or permanently attached device. Most manufacturers go an extra 1/4 to 1/2 inch just to be sure they are not short by a fraction.

Long barrel AK’s usually fall into the sniper category such as the Soviet SVD “Dragunov” and the like. The Chinese made several long barrel AK’s as well as many other Soviet bloc countries. These are great, but be warned, Soviet and Chinese SVD’s are VERY expensive, usually a minimum of $2500 up to $4000, depending on condition and accessories provided. These are more for the serious collector as opposed to the first AK buyer. But, if you have deep pockets, don’t be afraid of getting one. One more thing about the long barrel AK’s. Don’t assume that the long barrel is a guarantee of tack driver accuracy. Soviet bloc accuracy is considered hitting a human in the vital parts at extended range. Anywhere in the chest area or head is considered a good shot. While, in the West, we like to think in terms of a sniper rifle being able to shoot sub-minute-of-angle (MOA). I would expect the SVD to shoot 1 to 1.5 MOA at best. Of course, for the purists who may be reading, the SVD is not technically an AK-47. But it is close enough to include in this discussion.

Muzzle Attachments

The bore-end of virtually all AK barrels are threaded to accept some type of muzzle attachment. This thread pattern is 14 x 1mm, left hand. The most common attachment is the slant brake. The idea behind the slant brake is that the escaping gases will work to push the rifle down and to the left to compensate for the tendency for the recoil to push the rifle up and to the right. Sometimes a plain muzzle nut is installed just to protect the threads. There are many other muzzle attachments for the AK. If you like the AR-15 style flash hider, you can find one threaded to work. The AK-74 style flash hider or muzzle brake is also popular to install on the AK-47.

US Made Parts

If you buy a US made AK comprised of import parts kits, they must conform to the 922r guidelines (The Imported Parts Law, 1990). This is a code that was developed by the BATFE to set a standard for the manufacture of an AK style rifle (actually any semi-auto rifle on the ban list) from parts kits. The imported parts count cannot exceed 10 parts. And, this is not just any 10 parts on the rifle, but 10 parts from a possible list of 20 parts that must be complied with. For the AK-47 clones, this list includes 16 parts that apply. So, you must be sure that the AK you purchase has at least 6 US made parts substituted in the build. The most common US made parts that are used in the builds are the hammer, trigger, disconnector, gas piston, buttstock, pistol grip, upper and lower handguards (both count as one part), slant brake or plain muzzle nut, mag follower, and mag floor plate.. It only takes 6 of these, so it is up to the manufacturer how they want to work the build. Also, if using the mag parts as US made parts, you must always use the mags with these parts when firing the rifle or it would be an illegal configuration. As mentioned earlier, there are several US made magazines available that would give 3 US made parts to the build (the mag body also counts), but most manufacturers do not setup the build this way as it would preclude the use of genuine issue AK mags, which in all likelihood, will be what is used by the purchaser. You can reasonably expect an AK from a reputable manufacturer to be in proper 922r compliance. Most US made AK’s will also have a certificate stating that the rifle has been found to be in full 922r compliance by the BATFE. This is your best guarantee of being legal. The above discussion is for stamped receiver AK’s. Milled receiver AK’s only require 5 US made parts since the front and rear trunions are integral to the milled receiver and are not counted as applicable 922r parts.

Finishes

AK’s are available with a number of metal finishes. The most common is the Parkerized finish. This is a durable and traditional finish for a military firearm. All it needs is an occasional oiling. The Egyptian MAADI uses a paint finish which isn’t as durable as the park job, but that’s the way they did it. Some US manufacturers use a combination of parkerizing to “prime” the bare metal followed by a high-tech paint finish over that. To go really high tech, but gaudy, there is silver nitride. Also, there is the traditional blue finish as used on Polish and original Yugoslavian AKs as imported by Mitchell Arms in the late 80’s. These are perhaps the nicest finished AK-47’s out there. Of course, finish is something that can be changed later if the mood suits you.

Wood finish on the AK is usually a tung-oil type but can be linseed oil or polyurethane. Not much more to say about that.

Synthetic furniture needs no additional finish.

1994 – 2004 Ban Models

You may find some remnants from the 1994 – 2004 Clinton Gun ban for sale. These are referred to as “post-ban” models. Post-ban AK’s could be found either new or used. Basically, these are AK’s that have had the bayonet lugs ground off, muzzle attachment (no flash suppressors were allowed) welded or silver soldered to the barrel, either absent a folding stock or the folding stock welded or fixed in the open position, or possibly with a thumbhole buttstock. These can be fine shooters at more reasonable prices since most AK seekers want all the whistles and bells of the pre-ban AK-47’s. It is legal to modify these to “no-ban” configuration as long as you remember to comply with the 922r regulation.

Most likely, post-ban rifles still in possession of the factory or distributor were sent back through a re-assembly or upgrade process and were brought up to no-ban status effective September 14, 2004. There may be one or two minor features that were not brought up to date on no-ban rifles such as leaving the muzzle attachment permanently attached as it would not be time and dollar-wise to try to remove it. Also the same logic for the bayonet lugs. These are rather small issues as neither affect the operation of the AK as far as live fire. These fall under the heading of aesthetics. Editor’s Comment: Could be a chance to save some $$$ on a nice AK.

Shooting your new AK

This is the best part. The only drag in the last couple of years is the higher cost of all ammo. In years past, AK ammo was as little as 9 cents around. Hard to believe, but true. In any case, ammo is plentiful and still fairly inexpensive due to the sheer bulk available. Steel cased ammo is perfectly fine in the AK as that is what it was designed around. Some ranges will not permit any steel jacketed ammo, so keep that in mind.

Before you leave home, carefully inspect the bore for any grease that may be in the barrel. US made firearms rarely have it, but it may be there just the same. Light oil is not usually a problem and will be burnt out after the first round or two. In either case, go ahead and run some patches down the bore to see what you have. When they come out clean, go to the range.

Once out to the range, get it sighted in. You will need to have purchased a sight adjustment tool before hand as nothing else will work for you there. Keng’s Firearms Specialties has some of the Polytech armory-grade models for around $35. This is the one to get! It is built like a tank. Other after market adjustment tools will likely break the first time you try to move that front sight for elevation. I won’t go into the actual sighting process as you can do that I am sure. Just remember that when correcting the windage, move the front sight away from the desired direction, or, toward the wayward grouping, which is the opposite for the standard western style firearm with adjustable rear sight. So, if your group is to the right of the bull’s-eye (or whatever you like to aim at), you must push the front sight to the right to get on target. Also, the rear tangent sight has a setting at the very rear which is called the “battle setting.” At this setting, and after properly sighting in at 100 yards or meters, by aiming at center of body mass, you will hit an enemy between the shoulders and hips at ranges from zero to 300 meters or yards. Of course, you have the traditional ranges also listed from 100 to 700 or 800 meters or yards. For general use, sight-in at 100 meters or yards.

Feeding Problems

The beauty of the AK is that it eats just about any ammo you feed it with ease. That’s just the way it was designed. Of course, you may encounter problems as with any firearm. Any new rifle may need a break in period, so don’t be alarmed if you have a few failures feeding or extracting. Be sure it is properly lubed and oiled before you shoot and that may curb any problems before they manifest. Some AK’s such as the Yugo’s have a three- position gas setting which should be in the middle position. The other two are for very dirty rifles (more gas) and very hot loads (less gas). Be sure to check here if you have short stroking problems. In rare cases, you may have a bad magazine follower. Bent magazine bodies are more likely and this is easy to spot once you suspect a problem. If the rifle fails to run the bolt carrier to the rear AT ALL, then you have a block in the gas orifice between the bore and the gas tube. This may shut your shooting down for that session since it is going to require getting a probe in there to clean out whatever is blocking the orifice. Pretty rare, but possible.

Cleaning

This is going to involve some disassembly of your new AK. Not a problem. Just pop the dust cover off and proceed to take it down. Instructions are furnished with all AK’s these days and plenty are available online. The best policy for cleaning is to assume that your ammo is made with corrosive primers, especially if it came from overseas. This means if you don’t clean it after shooting, the bore will rust as well as the bolt face and breech areas. It’s a really ugly mess, but will not actually affect the operation of your AK unless it is an extreme case and you let the situation go without ever stopping the rust. However, why take a chance on ruining the value of you rifle? Hoppe’s No 9 cleaner is the best to use to clean up after corrosive primers. Use liberally and you will sleep well at night. Even if the primers are not corrosive, it is still a good policy to properly clean (from the rear of the bore) after a firing session. Lightly oil after cleaning and reassemble your AK.

Accessories

Not much is needed for the AK-47 except a sling. However, if you think you may want to add a scope, then you want to make sure your rifle comes with a scope mount. These can be added later, but the problem is finding someone to mount it accurately. It’s just easier to get it on the rifle from the start. Something to consider, especially if you are getting near the “50″ mark where the old eyes start losing a bit of their sharpness.

A bit of information on the mount. The traditional AK-47 scope mount is on the left side of the rifle, which is different from most modern rifles. It is a matter of necessity since there is not a solid mounting point to mount the scope on the top rear of the rifle. Dust cover mounts are available, but will not hold a steady zero. That method is OK for iron sights as on the Galil, but just not practical for a scope. The side mount does provide a nice feature in that it provides easy removal and replacement without losing “zero.”

Other scope mounting options are available, now that the accessory market has greatly expanded. Picatinny rail handguards are available that replace the front handguards. On the Picatinny rails you can mount your favorite scope or aiming device. The potential problem here is the fair amount of heat generated from firing is quickly transferred to the sighting devices. Also, the picatinny rails are usually made of aluminumm which is pretty hot on the hands even if no scopes are attached. Of course, mounting a scope that far forward usually requires a long eye relief model or just a zero magnification aim point or red dot sight. If this method of sight attachment appeals to you, then you are covered.

There are many AK scopes to pick from. Since the traditional scope mount for the AK is on the left side, you need to either get a scope with integral mount such as a Russian PSO-1 or similar, or buy a left-side mount and add your favorite scope. The PSO-1 style scopes are good and are made to the military spec and configuration of the original Soviet model. In fact, you can still get one made in the Belarus military factory. Keep in mind, as with the accuracy of the AK, Russian scopes are not quite as good as we are used to here in the West. They get the job done, however. Sighting in a Russian scope is a bit different in that the windage and elevation knobs operate a bit different for the sighting- in process. Also, the reticle does not stay centered as on a Western scope. There are instructions online (AK-47.net) on how to sight-in a Russian-style scope. If you go with the side scope mount by itself, you can add just about any scope you like, including one you may have sitting unused. Such a deal. To the AK purist, mounting anything other than an AK style scope on an AK-47 is not kosher; just doesn’t look quite right. But, each to his own.

The bottom line on accessories is that you can “pitch to the wind,” in other words, you can “pimp out” your AK to your heart’s desire! Keep in mind that the more equipment you apply, the less handy and rugged your AK becomes. It was designed as a rough and tough weapon and many believe it should be kept that way; the simpler the better.

That is the high points on buying a new AK-47. Of course, the complete history of the AK is not included here. That has been beat nigh-unto-death. You may check that out on many web sites if you desire.

We do have a short article on the “myth” of Kalashnikov having designed the AK-47 from a “clean sheet of paper” which you will find interesting.

AK-9 and the 9x39 Cartridge

Russia’s newest entry in the AK line up of rifles is a suppressed CQB rifle firing armor defeating subsonic ammunition. Meet the AK-9, Russia's latest and greatest, and perhaps deadliest, assault rifle. And that's saying a mouthful. The AK-9 was sorta unveiled in 2007, well almost. It still remains an enigma. A variant of the AKS-74, it's chambered for subsonic 9x39mm, is virtually silent, and defeats most body armor.

It's black, light - at 8 1/2 pounds it is lighter than earlier AK models - and packs a whisper-quiet silencer. Wow!

The Russians claim the new and improved AK-9 was designed for their law enforcement and anti-terror units. Can you say Russian SWAT? That may be true. I can see Comrade Boris sneaking up on a Russian school held hostage, crawling to within shooting range of Chechnyan insurgents, and silently and efficiently neutralizing the threats.

I can also see a more sinister mission for the AK-9 - as the assault weapon of Russia's future. In 2006, the Izhmash factory was contracted to design a rifle for the Russian special forces. Alexei Dragunov helped to design the AK-9 and commented about it saying “It shoots virtually without a sound and it can go through a bullet-proof vest.”

The AK-9 was designed around the 9x39 subsonic rifle cartridge. Like previous AK variants, the 9x39 was designed around the 7.62x39 to maintain parts compatibility with the AK action and receiver. The purpose of the 9x39 was to be a silent subsonic round with the penetrating capabilities of a rifle round. To achieve this, the designers made a long heavy bullet, weighing in at a whopping 250 grains, twice as heavy as the 7.62x39 bullet. The length and weight of the bullet give it a much higher ballistic coefficient than similar caliber handgun cartridges. The effective range of the 9x39 is limited to 400 meters.

Three versions of the 9x39 were developed. The SP-6 model is an AP (armor piercing) round with a steel penetrator capable of punching through 3.5mm of steel at 400 meters, and a whopping 6mm (0.25 in) of steel at 200 meters. At closer ranges of 100 meters or less it can blast through 8mm of steel and still have enough power to neutralize any soft target beyond the armor. The SP-6 proved expensive to produce, so a budget model, the PAB-9 was developed. Unfortunately, the PAB-9 sacrificed far too much in the way of performance, and so the model was dropped. The SP-5 variant is a more typical lead bullet in an accurized full metal jacket configuration.

RPK-47

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When faced with the need for a light machine gun, the Soviets naturally turned to preexisting designs. And what better foundation is there than the Ak-47?

RPK Specifications
The RPK (Ruchnoi Pulement Kalashnikova) is very similar in design, form, and function to the AKM/AK-47. It fires the same 7.62x39mm ammunition, and the AKM and RPK share many parts. The RPK and AKM sport identical pistol grips, rear spring guide rods (though it has a different forward guide rod), and are capable of running the same magazines.

What is different is a direct result of the desire to increase the effective range of the rifle, increase resilience and durability, and enhance the sustained fire capability of the platform by increasing heat capacity and reducing bore erosion. The RPK has a longer, heavier, chrome-lined barrel, and a folding bipod, in addition to a beefed up 1.5mm thick stamped receiver (compared to the 1mm thick AK-47 receiver). The receiver cover is also thicker than that found on the AK-47. Even the trunion securing the barrel to the receiver is made stronger by the addition of slightly wider ribbing than is utilized on the AKM. It also has a modified, slotted, muzzle break.

Larger magazines are used with the RPK, adding the sustained fire capability of the rifle; 40-round box magazines and 75-round drum magazines, both of which are compatible with AK-47 and it's variants, were developed for use with the RPK. The RPK has a cyclic rate of around 650 rounds per minute, and an effective range approaching 700 yards. The RPK does have some serious drawbacks as a light machine gun: The barrel is fixed, and not able to be swapped in the field. Additionally, since the rifle fires from a closed bolt, excess heat build up can lead to rounds "cooking off" from the heat of the bolt. Given these drawbacks, the rifle must be fired in short bursts to avoid damaging the barrel or cooking of rounds.

Variants
Like the AK-47, there are many variants of the RPK-47. The most common is probably the RPKS, which was issued to the airborne infantry. It had a wooden side-folding stock to allow it to be more easily packed by air-drop units. Incorporating the folding stock required extensive modification to the rear trunnion, which was riveted to both walls of the receiver. A socket was integrated into the trunnion which allowed the stock to connect with a pivot pin. A latch was also built into a cut-out on the side of the trunnion which would engage a catch on the stock and lock it into the open position.

Other variants include the N-model, which was the night-fighting version of the RPK, designated the RPKN or RPK-74N. On this model, night vision and infrared scopes, usually models NSP-3, NSPU or NSPUM, were mounted on a left-side rail which was mounted on the receiver.

RPK-74
When the AK-74 was introduced in 1974, the new modified RPK was also introduced. Both rifles are chambered in 5.45x39mm. The RPK-74, like the AK-74, is a modernized version of the 47 model. The RPK-74 sports many of the same improvements as the AKM, but with a few additional changes. The rear trunnion was further reinforced, and the barrel was threaded to use either a flash suppressor or a blank-firing adapter. A newly-designed front sight base was also used on the RPK-74. The RPK-74 is still in use today by the former Soviet Union states, as well as much of Eastern Europe including Poland, Romania, Bulgaria, and Yugoslavia. Other communist bloc nations such as North Korea and China also utilize versions of the RPK-74.

Growth into the Export and Civilian Market
As demand for the rifle grew, another model of the RPK was developed, the RPK-74M. This new model has all polymer furniture as well as a standard side rail. Export models designated the RPK-201 were chambered in 5.56 NATO along with the RPKM model which was chambered in 7.62x39. Semiautomatic models known as the Veper and Veper 2 were created for the burgeoning US civilian market and are available in .223, 7.62x39, and .308 Winchester.

AK-47 Receiver Identification: Milled vs. Stamped

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Here at Cheaper Than Dirt!, we get many questions concerning Milled vs. Stamped receivers. Today, we'll discuss the differences between the two, and show you how you can tell what kind of receiver you have.

AK-type rifles have two main types of receivers: milled and stamped. These days, the country of origin is usually the determining factor in which type of receiver you have. Distinguishing between the two can be quite a task for someone that does not know what the specific differences are. So, if you'd like to be informed, keep reading.

Milled Receivers

The first AK-47s that were built had milled receivers. They were machined from a solid block of steel which made them very sturdy, but also very heavy. One of the easiest ways to visually differentiate the milled receiver is the large, rectangular-shaped cut-out above and in front of the magazine well that is nearly 5" in length. This was designed to reduce the overall weight of the rifle.

The trigger guard is stamped and is riveted onto the bottom of the receiver in a very similar way as on a stamped receiver. The pistol grip nut is riveted in place onto the receiver just behind the trigger guard. The magazine well and magazine front latch slot is machined into the receiver. You should also notice that some of the sharp edges above the trigger and magazine have been milled off (chamfered).

Stamped Receivers

Stamped receivers are much more common, easier to build and make yourself, and can be very strong. While milled receivers are machined out of a heavy, solid block of steel, stamped receivers are stamped from a flat piece of thin metal, bent into its box shape, and riveted together with a center spacer, and both a front and rear "trunnion." Stamped receivers can easily be visually differentiated from milled receivers by noticing the small, shallow indentation approximately 1" long on each side of the receiver, directly above the magazine well. This indentation is called the "magazine guide." This is not to be confused with the large, weight-reducing cut-out you find on milled receivers. You can also differentiate the two because of the many external rivet heads on the sides of the stamped receiver.

The trigger guard is stamped, just like milled receivers, and is riveted onto the bottom of the receiver. The grip screw nut, however, is a separate piece that fits down from inside the receiver through the square hole behind the trigger guard. Pistol grips are usually interchangeable between receiver types.

Milled receivers are commonly thought to be stronger than their stamped counterparts. Some authorities also believe that they're more inherently accurate, but there are some who dismiss this difference as negligible or deny it altogether. Despite all of the differing opinions on which receiver type is better, according to Soviet manuals, stamped receivers generally have a longer life expectancy in terms of rounds fired.

There are many different countries that make both types of receivers, so please do not assume that your receiver is milled or stamped based on it's country of origin.

The AK-74 5.45x39 Rifle

We're continuing "AK Week" here at Cheaper Than Dirt! with a short piece about the modern version of the AK-47, the AK-74 chambered for the 5.45x39 cartridge. Click here to read more

The 5.45x39 Cartridge
Weapons designers have long toyed with the concept of a lightweight high-speed round that would destabilize upon entering soft tissue. Eugene Stoner first developed the 5.56mm round for the US AR-15 (and later M16) rifle in 1957. The Soviets had long known that the 7.62x39 round did not perform optimally at ranges less than 200 meters, and therefore sought to develop a smaller, faster, lighter round that would have better terminal ballistics than the 7.62, but which would still have an effective range of around 500 meters. While all high speed ammunition tends to yaw when entering soft tissue, the lighter, faster 5.56 NATO round tended to yaw so drastically that it would break up and fragment more causing more serious wounds.

The 5.56 NATO round and the Soviet 5.45x39 share much in common, and that's no surprise. The Soviets took the 5.56 NATO and improved upon it by making it even more inclined to yaw. The construction of the 5.45x39 bullet features a steel core with a copper jacket and lead-plugged tail. The jacket forms an air space above the penetrator at the nose, making the round lighter and faster still. This, combined with the lead plug in the tail, made the round very tail heavy and incredibly unstable in soft tissue. Even upon impact the air-gap in the nose remains intact, causing the bullet to violently yaw sideways and rapidly break apart as it passes through tissue. The 5.45 also has a very high cross-sectional density giving it an excellent ballistic co-efficient and hence, aerodynamic stability. The increased cross-sectional density also makes the bullet much better at penetrating kevlar and other body armor than the older 7.62x39 ammunition.

First battle-tested in the Soviet war in Afghanistan - one of the most brutal and bloody wars of our time and certainly one of the most inhospitable of environments to field troops and material - the AK-74 proved it's merit. Afghans who came up against the AK-74 in the Afghan-Soviet war dubbed the 5.45x39 round the "poison bullet" due to the wound-causing capability of the round. There were rumours that the round might violate the Geneva Convention. Though, since the round was not an explosive, poisoned, or a hollow point round, the greivances were never found to have merit. Similar complaints were made when the 5.56 NATO round was introduced, though neither cartridge was ever found to be in violation of the Geneva Convention.

The AK-74 Rifle
AK-74 is the abbreviated form of Automat Kalashnikova 1974 - Automatic Kalashnikov 1974. The AK-74 is still produced at Izhevsk Mechanical Works. Like its great granddaddy, the AK-47, this gun has numerous variants - both domestic (Russian) and foreign.

The rifle is light compared to earlier versions - at slightly more than 6 1/2 pounds. With the full stock extended, the AK-74 measures an inch longer than three feet; folded it measures 27 inches. The standard gun has a 16-inch barrel. The AK-74 is capable of cycling upwards of 650 rounds per minute, leaving the flash-suppressed barrel at nearly 3,000 feet per second with a 55-grain bullet. It has an effective range beyond a half mile and uses standard 30-round, 45-round and RPK-74 detachable box magazines.

The AK-74 shares many similarities with it's parent, the AK-47. Not wanting to do away with the incredibly reliable AK platform, the Soviets rechambered the barrel in 5.45, and left the cartridge length the same at 39mm so that the action could stay largely unchanged. Both rifles use the same gas piston system, as well as the same rotating bolt locking mechanism. The bolt system runs on identical rails as the AKM/AK-47, but the bolt itself is slightly smaller to accommodate the smaller cartridge. It is also lighter, making it more efficient and further reducing recoil. The AK-74 also features a larger and stronger extractor than the AKM extractor, which was prone to failure.

The AK-74 was designed with a groove cut into the stock of the weapon so that soldiers could identify the weapon by touch in total darkness. This along with the distinctive muzzle break make the AK-74 easily distinguished from the AKM. The muzzle break actually increases the report of the firearm, but substantially reduces the already low recoil of the rifle. Modern versions of the AK-74 also feature rail systems for mounting weapon accessories

Variants

There are a number of variants of the AK-74. The AK-74M is available with a "plum"-colored (manufacture 1985-1989) or black (1989-present) side folding stock made of plastic. The AK-74M is still the standard-issue rifle for the Russian military. The AKS-74 is the marine and paratrooper version and features a side folding triangular stock. The AKS-74U also sports a triangular folding stock, but also has a very short barrel with a modified muzzle break. This "Krinkov"-version is commonly mislabeled as a submachine gun. It is actually still an assault rifle by virtue of the fact that it utilizes a rifle cartridge instead of pistol ammunition. The "Night" model of the AK-74, designated the AK-74N, has all black polymer furniture and sports a night vision infrared scope mounted on a side rail.

Like the AK-47, there are numerous licensed and unlicensed copies of the rifle. Yugoslavian licensed manufactured M80s are one well known variant that were used extensively by the nations armed forces in the 1990s, and remains in use today in the many republics of Yugoslavia. Other versions of the AK-74 were manufactured in Poland, Romania, Bulgaria, and East Germany. Many of these versions were later converted to 5.56 NATO. Like the AK-47, there exist innumerable semi-auto variants manufactured in and imported into the United States. Here they maintain enormous popularity among civilians. Select-fire versions of the AK-74 are not legal for import into the United States due to the Gun Control Act of 1968 which banned the importation of firearms for anything other than a "sporting purpose"

Loading 75 Round Bulgarian/Romanian/Chinese Drum Magazine

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The Bulgarian drum magazine is from one of the finest firearms arsenals in the world, the famed "Circle 10" in Bulgaria. Rest assured that you have the finest in this type of drum magazine. Loading is easy, but the first time out may take a few minutes longer than after you have done it a few times - like anything else in life

This magazine has two features that are an improvement over the original Russian 75 round drum. The spring tension can be left off until ready to fire which preserves the life of the main spring.

Follower at the beginning of the spiral track. Click to see full size.

First 5 rounds loaded. Click to see full size.

After the spring has pushed the rounds into the tower. Click to see full size.

The drum fully loaded. Click to see full size.

The follower in the correct position for a partially loaded drum. Click to see full size.

The Russian drum must remain under full tension as long as it is loaded.

Also, if the driving force of the main spring is not enough to completely empty the magazine, more turns can be added to improve function. To adjust spring tension on the Russian drum, you would have to disassemble the drum to adjust the main spring which is not an agreeable task. Basics Some terms we will be working with here are important to define.

1. Cover Latches - The 2 latches at the top of the drum that secure the cover in place

2. Spindle - The circular device inside with cutouts for holding the rounds, rotates in a circular motion

3. Locking/unlocking shaft - The center spring-loaded device with a dished top.

4. Small winding key - Directly underneath the locking/unlocking shaft with two ears to grab onto

5. Follower - Located in the spindle and engages in the spiral groove or track. Pushes the last few rounds up the tower

6. Tower - The squarish part at the top of the drum that inserts into the mag-well of the rifle

7. Main Winding Key - On the cover that looks like a wind-up-toy key

8. Main Spring - Not visible, but under the spindle mechanism

9. Spiral track - Visible at the bottom of the drum

Loading the Drum

First thing you may want to do is to clean the heavy oil from the drum with some Gun Scrubber or the like. The drum comes shipped with this oil to prevent rust or corrosion in the shipping process. It's a bit more than you need for actual use. Re-oil with your favorite gun oil. Note: This entire step is completely optional.

Release the 2 cover latches at the top. Then open the cover. You will see a maze of slots and spirals on the inside. Don't be intimidated by the appearance. It is all very well thought out and easy to use!

Push the locking/unlocking shaft with firm, sharp pressure using your thumb to release any pressure on the main spring. This may take a bump with the outside of your fist. Don't be alarmed if/when the main spring releases its tension with a whir.

With the locking shaft still depressed, wind the spindle clockwise until the follower returns to the beginning of the spiral. Release the shaft.

With your ammo handy, load 5 rounds, point-down, into the top of the drum along the largest diameter of the drum, just under the tower, loading in a clockwise direction. While firmly holding the spindle (yes, firmly), add two clicks in a clockwise direction using the small winding key. Slowly release the spindle and allow the 5 rounds to load into the tower. Turn the spindle clockwise and remove 2 of the last rounds loaded and continue to turn the spindle clockwise until it returns to the end of the spiral track (starting position). Still holding the spindle, add those 2 rounds into the top of the drum about in the same place you just loaded the first 5 rounds. With these in place, the spindle will be locked in position and you can release it.

Continue loading your rounds in all the places they will fit all around the drum. When you have filled all the slots, you should have 75 rounds in the drum. Once loaded, close the cover and secure the latches.

With the main winding key, turn it about 10 good turns or clicks, if you prefer to count using that method. As you turn the key, you will hear and feel the spring as it clicks, At any of the clicks, you can release pressure on the key to get a new grip or relax. Over-winding is not recommended. If firing and you find that the rounds are not feeding solidly into the rifle, add a click or two right then and add those clicks to the total next time you load up.

If you are loading to put the drum in storage for future use, do all the loading but only wind the main key 2 clicks. Save the full-winding till you are ready to fire. This way, the spring will not take on a "set."

Also, if you fire half the rounds and want to leave them in the drum, just open the cover and depress the locking shaft to release spring tension. Add one or two clicks to keep some tension on the rounds and close it up. Next time out, just wind it up fully and go.

Loading Less than 75 Rounds

If you are out shooting and have, say, 20 rounds left over and no other mags handy, you can load those into the drum. Start off like above and just add the 20 rounds along the outer rim going clockwise from the top. The only difference is to start with the follower at the very top of the spiral and back it off enough to add just 20 rounds. Once loaded, close the cover and wind the key a few complete turns. You should not need full spring pressure for just 20 rounds.

Always remember that the follower needs to be able to push the last few rounds up through the tower. So, don't leave any gaps in the spindle feed pattern when loading.

Once you get the hang of loading the magazine, you can load it with any amount of rounds you desire and adjust the spring pressure as you see fit.

Cleaning

After a number of outings with the drum, you may need to clean out powder residue and any other trash. Open the cover and clean with gun scrubber or as desired. Most of the accumulation will likely be in the tower, so give it a good spraying out. Re-oil and that's it!

The Chinese drums can supposedly be taken apart to some extent for cleaning. However, this drum has resisted all efforts to disassemble. So, unless you have a bent or broken part, be happy just to clean with solvents and sprays.

Good luck and have fun with your new drum magazine.

Tapco G2 Double Hook AK-47 Trigger

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The Tapco G2 Double Hook AK-47 Trigger is probably one of the best upgrades you can make to your AK-47. Combat rifles such as the AK have notoriously sloppy triggers that require upwards of 10lbs of trigger-pull. To make matters worse, many of the Com-Block semi-automatic rifles imported here have a hump on the back of the disconnector that creates the horrible trigger-slap of many of these imports.

This guide walks you through the process of installing the G2 Double Hook AK-47 on a Romanian SAR-1 rifle. While the particulars of this install pertain to the Romanian SAR-1, they also apply to most other AK-47 semi-automatic imports, including most Yugoslavian models and Siagas chambered in 7.62x39. This particular trigger set should also fit both stamped and milled receivers. That being said: gunsmithing is required. We do not recommend that any of the procedures described here be performed by anyone but a qualified gunsmith.

The first step is to disassemble your AK according to Tapco's Instruction Manual. Always unload and clear any firearm completely before beginning to disassemble it.

With your disassembled rifle, lets compare the individual components to check for areas that may need filing or grinding for proper fitment. First, lets take a look at the trigger itself. Here, we compare the Century Arms trigger as installed on a Romanian SAR-1. Note that on the Tapco the rear of the trigger has much more material than the Century trigger. It should also be noted that the Tapco trigger uses a larger pivot hole that requires a bushing (included in the Tapco kit) to slide over the pin.

The disconnector that is used on the Century trigger group has much more material on the rear of the part. Why Century decided to cast the part in this way is beyond us, but the result is horrible trigger slap. The Tapco disconnector uses the traditional Com-block design and does not have the additional hump of metal.

Our Romanian SAR-1 has a single hook trigger design. Because of this, the receiver only has one notch for the trigger hook. We took a Dremel rotary tool and a medium stone to grind out a matching notch on the other side of the trigger slot. Be careful while grinding, go slowly, and don't apply very much pressure - let the stone do the work for you. In this photo you can see that our stone slipped out of the notch and marred the finish a bit. Not a huge deal, but perhaps a bit more care while grinding could have prevented this.

After test fitting our trigger in the modified slot, we noticed some flashing left over from the mold in which the trigger was cast was interfering with the operation of the trigger. We ground this bit of metal off the front and the back of the trigger, taking a little bit at a time and test fitting in between grinds until it was just right.

At this point we reassembled the rifle to dry fire it and cycle the action a few times to check it for functionality and reliabilty. One problem quickly arose: the trigger would stick after being pulled and would not reset. A closer inspection revealed that the hooks were sticking in the notches. It wasn't that the notches weren't long enough, but it seemed that the hooks were grabbing on the sides of the trigger slot, like it wasn't quite wide enough. So, we disassembled the rifle again and broke out the dremel one more time to take off just a tiny amount of material from the sides of the trigger slot.

After reassembling the rifle one last time, everything worked flawlessly. Instead of a creeping heavy combat trigger, we had a crisp clean trigger with very little creep. The action cycled well, and range testing showed that the rifle was just as reliable, and a whole lot more accurate.

Considering an AK-47 purchase?

This article is intended to help the first time AK buyer get the needed information to make an informed purchase of an AK-47 or AK-74 rifle. Click here to read more.

This is not for the current AK owner and collector, and as such, you may feel unchallenged by this information. That's OK. We still love to have you here. Feel free to read along with us anyway.

Of course, we are only talking about purchasing the semi-automatic version of the "Automatic Kalashnikov Model 47" or AK-47, which can go by many trade names and designations, but is a rose by any other name.

Today's semi-automatic AK market is flooded with Kalashnikovs ranging from marginal to excellent quality. You may find that the deciding factor is your "hip-pocket national bank" (your wallet). We can work with you as well as the guy with deep pockets who is ready to buy but just needs a push in the right direction. Let's begin.

Some Basics

The AK-47 and AK-74 rifles are by far the most produced modern small arms in the world. Some estimates are as high as 100 million copies. In addition, they are quite the "bad-boy" of the firearms world. There is good reason for this. The AK has earned the reputation by many armies for being an extremely reliable weapon under all possible conditions. This is a good thing. Since it is such a good weapon, and the full auto version is relatively cheap on the international black market, many find it to be their weapon of choice, especially gangs and drug traffickers, not to mention terrorists in all parts of the world. Also, the US military has faced the AK-47 in just about every conflict from Vietnam to the present day. Thus, the "bad-boy" reputation. You should have already gotten over the "not invented here" syndrome or you would not be thinking about buying one to start with. Believe it or not, and much to their loss, many suffer from this malady.

To keep a mental tab on how long the AK has been in service, the AK-47 was introduced in 1947 and the AK-74 in 1974. Pretty easy to remember, huh? Actually, this method of model numbering is common to the European world where the rifle is simply named after the year it was designed or introduced.

The 7.62x39mm round has good stopping power and can be favorably compared to the .30-30 cartridge. 7.62x39mm is plentiful in that countless ship loads of ammo have been brought into the US over the last 20 years, to the extent it is virtually a universal cartridge. The AK-74 5.45x39mm round is a bit less well known. It is essentially the Soviet answer to the 5.56 NATO round. It is available, but not to the extent of the 7.62x39mm. For this reason, it may be best not to consider the AK-74 in this caliber. The same rifle is available in 5.56 NATO for those who would find that convenient. Editor's Comment: The best bet for your first AK is the original .30 caliber (7.62x39mm) AK-47.

Magazines have been brought in over the years to the tune of millions, undoubtedly. The basic AK-47 mag is the steel, 30 round "banana clip." While these have gone up in price over the years, used surplus and unissued condition magazines are still available for under $20. The great thing about AK mags is the demand is so high they are being made new right here in the US! These are mostly the synthetic variety and most are of high quality and very usable. However, the very best synthetics are from places like Bulgaria which produces the "waffle mag" with the "Circle 10" arsenal mark at the bottom. Highly recommended if you go synthetic. Of course, all the synthetic mags are impervious to rust (not including the springs) and are very robust. East German and Polish steel mags are about the best. There is a whole world of information in identifying AK mags as they all are similar. Perhaps we will also add that information in the future. Editor's Comment: The number one recommendation is the military surplus, 30 round, steel, banana magazine.

Rifles are available in two major receiver groups: milled and stamped. This is where you must decide if you want to go high or low dollar. Just about any milled AK is going to be on the pricey side. That's just the way the market is. Not to say that some of the stamped receivers are going to be cheap either. But, generally speaking, the milled variety is going to cost you more. To explain the difference between the two, the milled receiver starts life as a solid chunk of quality steel and is put through numerous machining stages until there is a finished monobloc receiver. That's the primary reason for the greater cost; all the machine work. The stamped receivers are, just as the term implies, stamped out of a flat sheet of steel and then formed in a series of bending operations until the final box-shaped receiver is completed. Of course, there are added operations for the stamped receiver such as adding the front and rear trunions, spot welding the bolt carrier rails to the inside, and installing a number of heavy rivets that are the trademark of the stamped AK receiver. A fairly recent improvement to the stamped AK is the development of the heavy 1.6mm steel receiver. This produces a receiver that is almost as rigid as the milled but without all the intricate milling operations. This is probably the one to buy if you are considering the stamped variety. However, there is something aesthetically pleasing about the solid chunk of steel on the milled receiver. Let your pocket book be your guide. Editor's comment. For your first AK-47, go with the stamped steel receiver, either the 1mm or the improved 1.6mm. It is every bit as serviceable as the milled and will more than likely cost you a bunch less. Look at one of the Romanian models (1mm receiver) for around $400-$500. Be sure it accepts the standard double stack hi-capacity magazine, however.

Manufacture

Let's face it; the days of importing a complete, functioning AK-47 into the US are over. This basically ended in March 14, 1989 when President G. H.W. Bush created an Executive Order banning the import of 43 different semi-automatic rifles. This is where the term "pre-ban" started and is still in use almost 20 years later. If you want one of these pre-ban rifles, by all means get one. The thing to keep in mind is they cost-a-plenty. We are talking in the realm of $1K to $2K or better. That's great if you have the money. You can be assured of getting a quality rifle if you buy a Norinco, Polytech, Valmet, Maadi, Hungarian, Bulgarian, Yugoslavian, or any other such available, pre-ban, imported AK- 47. You may find yourself owning something so nice that you will be afraid to shoot it! Especially one that is still new in box (NIB). Don't be afraid to shoot it unless you just want to keep it for posterity's sake or as an investment. But, that is not what this article is focusing on. We are looking at buying a shooter.

US manufacturers are producing their AK's from imported "parts kits." These are complete, fully functioning, select fire, AK-47 rifles that were demilled in the country of origin (or possibly the US importer) to conform to BATFE specs. This means cutting and removing the receiver between the front and rear trunions and carefully removing all the small parts to be shipped forward for import. Recently, the BATFE has even restricted the import of barrels from these kits. That's just another part that has to be replaced with a US-made unit which in turn ratchets-up the cost of the finished rifle. These import restrictions have been successfully overcome by many AK makers as the demand is there to justify doing all the work of producing the receivers and barrels here in the US. As a matter of fact, there is one company that produces an absolutely outstanding "Bulgarian" AK made right here in the USA!

Price isn't always a true judge of quality, but most of these quality AK's are going to run at least $750. The old phrase, "You get what you pay for" runs true here. You cannot cut corners and have a first class firearm. However, fear not, you can get a quality AK at reasonable prices. There are many Romanian AK's out there that are certainly worth owning for around $400-$500. Fit and finish on these may not be the absolute best, but they are complete and functional AK's that will serve you well. You would be cautioned to make a close check of the front sight tower (FST) if you decide to go this route. We have seen many FST's on Romanian and Yugoslav AK's that are not properly aligned (canted left or right) and need to be set straight before you can have a successful shooting adventure. If you special order one sight unseen, you may have to resort to having a gunsmith perform this service for you if it comes in canted.

Furniture

The decision to buy an AK comes with several choices, one being "furniture." Furniture is the firearms term for the buttstock, pistol grip, and handguards. However odd it may sound, it is the accepted term to refer to the exterior parts of the rifle other than the barrel and receiver. Furniture is divided into two major groups: wood and synthetic. Both are equally good.

Wood Furniture

The Soviet AK started with wood furniture. This would be the way to go if you want a traditional AK-47. There are a variety of woods to choose from as well as laminated woods. The laminated wood is probably the best choice for overall durability. You can go with original Soviet bloc wood or go with one of the many US made stock sets. If you buy an AK and want to change-out the furniture for any reason, that is easily done. You may buy a synthetic furniture AK and want to go wood, or vice versa. Or, you may have a blond Hungarian stock set and want to change to walnut. It's easy to do. These sets are available prefinished and ready to install or ready to apply the finish you desire. One very popular fad is to duplicate the red toned Russian finish with a gloss topcoat. Looks very nice on any AK.

Synthetic Furniture

Synthetic AK furniture came along sometime in the late 60's or early 70's. East Germany may have been the first to use a plastic furniture set. This is known as the "pebble finish" and was medium brown in color. This is not the most robust choice of furniture as it appears to be more of a PVC plastic as opposed to the later, tougher, glass filled nylon, but you may like the look. Later came the black synthetic furniture by the Bulgarians. Some people like the all black AK look the best. Easily accomplished if you want to change to that look. Synthetic furniture sets are now available in OD green, Plum, and black to name a few. You may even find them in various camouflaged patterns. Stencils for doing your own multi-color camo paint job are available as well. Also, you may buy your AK with standard AK length buttstock or in the longer "US" version, which adds about 1-1/4 inch to the overall length, which is more comfortable for most US shooters.

Folding Stocks

AK's offer several buttstock options other than fixed position. You can find an under folder, a right side folder, or a left side folder. These are now legal to own since the sunset of the Clinton 1994 - 2004 gun ban. If you want to leave tradition behind, you can also buy an AK with an AR-15 style collapsible buttstock. The under folder is perhaps the most recognizable version, but the side folders have certainly been around for a while. Side folders come in either the triangular shape which approximates the basic shape of the wooden buttstock, or, you can find what is called a "wire stock" which is a single rod extending from the rear trunion to the terminus at the buttplate. This is also called a "crutch" folder since it resembles the end of the crutch that goes under the armpit. All are good, just depends on what blows your skirt up. The beauty of the side folders is that they can be retrofitted to a conventional buttstock AK with little work. The underfolder is an underfolder for life.

Barrel Length

You will find that the majority of the AK's out there have barrels that are 16.1 inches long. This is true to the original concept and has held constant since introduced. Of course, like all military weapons, there is always a use for shorter and longer barrel versions. Short barrel AK rifles fall into the NFA area and are restricted from private ownership without the BATFE tax stamp and NFA paperwork. Legal ownership is not insurmountable, but most guys don't want to go through the process. One alternative is to get a Krinkov AK-47 (AKSU) which was designed with a 10 inch barrel, and that has been modified by adding a fake "can" or suppressor that is permanently attached. You can have the best of both worlds; short barrel rifle and legal. As long as the barrel and attachment have an overall length of 16 inches, you are good to go. Keep in mind, barrel length is measured from the bolt face in the ready-to-fire position to the very end of the barrel or permanently attached device. Most manufacturers go an extra 1/4 to 1/2 inch just to be sure they are not short by a fraction.

Long barrel AK's usually fall into the sniper category such as the Soviet SVD "Dragunov" and the like. The Chinese made several long barrel AK's as well as many other Soviet bloc countries. These are great, but be warned, Soviet and Chinese SVD's are VERY expensive, usually a minimum of $2500 up to $4000, depending on condition and accessories provided. These are more for the serious collector as opposed to the first AK buyer. But, if you have deep pockets, don't be afraid of getting one. One more thing about the long barrel AK's. Don't assume that the long barrel is a guarantee of tack driver accuracy. Soviet bloc accuracy is considered hitting a human in the vital parts at extended range. Anywhere in the chest area or head is considered a good shot. While, in the West, we like to think in terms of a sniper rifle being able to shoot sub-minute-of-angle (MOA). I would expect the SVD to shoot 1 to 1.5 MOA at best. Of course, for the purists who may be reading, the SVD is not technically an AK-47. But it is close enough to include in this discussion.

Muzzle Attachments

The bore-end of virtually all AK barrels are threaded to accept some type of muzzle attachment. This thread pattern is 14 x 1mm, left hand. The most common attachment is the slant brake. The idea behind the slant brake is that the escaping gases will work to push the rifle down and to the left to compensate for the tendency for the recoil to push the rifle up and to the right. Sometimes a plain muzzle nut is installed just to protect the threads. There are many other muzzle attachments for the AK. If you like the AR-15 style flash hider, you can find one threaded to work. The AK-74 style flash hider or muzzle brake is also popular to install on the AK-47.

US Made Parts

If you buy a US made AK comprised of import parts kits, they must conform to the 922r guidelines (The Imported Parts Law, 1990). This is a code that was developed by the BATFE to set a standard for the manufacture of an AK style rifle (actually any semi-auto rifle on the ban list) from parts kits. The imported parts count cannot exceed 10 parts. And, this is not just any 10 parts on the rifle, but 10 parts from a possible list of 20 parts that must be complied with. For the AK-47 clones, this list includes 16 parts that apply. So, you must be sure that the AK you purchase has at least 6 US made parts substituted in the build. The most common US made parts that are used in the builds are the hammer, trigger, disconnector, gas piston, buttstock, pistol grip, upper and lower handguards (both count as one part), slant brake or plain muzzle nut, mag follower, and mag floor plate.. It only takes 6 of these, so it is up to the manufacturer how they want to work the build. Also, if using the mag parts as US made parts, you must always use the mags with these parts when firing the rifle or it would be an illegal configuration. As mentioned earlier, there are several US made magazines available that would give 3 US made parts to the build (the mag body also counts), but most manufacturers do not setup the build this way as it would preclude the use of genuine issue AK mags, which in all likelihood, will be what is used by the purchaser. You can reasonably expect an AK from a reputable manufacturer to be in proper 922r compliance. Most US made AK's will also have a certificate stating that the rifle has been found to be in full 922r compliance by the BATFE. This is your best guarantee of being legal. The above discussion is for stamped receiver AK's. Milled receiver AK's only require 5 US made parts since the front and rear trunions are integral to the milled receiver and are not counted as applicable 922r parts.

Finishes

AK's are available with a number of metal finishes. The most common is the Parkerized finish. This is a durable and traditional finish for a military firearm. All it needs is an occasional oiling. The Egyptian MAADI uses a paint finish which isn't as durable as the park job, but that's the way they did it. Some US manufacturers use a combination of parkerizing to "prime" the bare metal followed by a high-tech paint finish over that. To go really high tech, but gaudy, there is silver nitride. Also, there is the traditional blue finish as used on Polish and original Yugoslavian AKs as imported by Mitchell Arms in the late 80's. These are perhaps the nicest finished AK-47's out there. Of course, finish is something that can be changed later if the mood suits you.

Wood finish on the AK is usually a tung-oil type but can be linseed oil or polyurethane. Not much more to say about that.

Synthetic furniture needs no additional finish.

1994 - 2004 Ban Models

You may find some remnants from the 1994 - 2004 Clinton Gun ban for sale. These are referred to as "post-ban" models. Post-ban AK's could be found either new or used. Basically, these are AK's that have had the bayonet lugs ground off, muzzle attachment (no flash suppressors were allowed) welded or silver soldered to the barrel, either absent a folding stock or the folding stock welded or fixed in the open position, or possibly with a thumbhole buttstock. These can be fine shooters at more reasonable prices since most AK seekers want all the whistles and bells of the pre-ban AK-47's. It is legal to modify these to "no-ban" configuration as long as you remember to comply with the 922r regulation.

Most likely, post-ban rifles still in possession of the factory or distributor were sent back through a re-assembly or upgrade process and were brought up to no-ban status effective September 14, 2004. There may be one or two minor features that were not brought up to date on no-ban rifles such as leaving the muzzle attachment permanently attached as it would not be time and dollar-wise to try to remove it. Also the same logic for the bayonet lugs. These are rather small issues as neither affect the operation of the AK as far as live fire. These fall under the heading of aesthetics. Editor's Comment: Could be a chance to save some $$$ on a nice AK.

Shooting your new AK

This is the best part. The only drag in the last couple of years is the higher cost of all ammo. In years past, AK ammo was as little as 9 cents around. Hard to believe, but true. In any case, ammo is plentiful and still fairly inexpensive due to the sheer bulk available. Steel cased ammo is perfectly fine in the AK as that is what it was designed around. Some ranges will not permit any steel jacketed ammo, so keep that in mind.

Before you leave home, carefully inspect the bore for any grease that may be in the barrel. US made firearms rarely have it, but it may be there just the same. Light oil is not usually a problem and will be burnt out after the first round or two. In either case, go ahead and run some patches down the bore to see what you have. When they come out clean, go to the range.

Once out to the range, get it sighted in. You will need to have purchased a sight adjustment tool before hand as nothing else will work for you there. Keng's Firearms Specialties has some of the Polytech armory-grade models for around $35. This is the one to get! It is built like a tank. Other after market adjustment tools will likely break the first time you try to move that front sight for elevation. I won't go into the actual sighting process as you can do that I am sure. Just remember that when correcting the windage, move the front sight away from the desired direction, or, toward the wayward grouping, which is the opposite for the standard western style firearm with adjustable rear sight. So, if your group is to the right of the bull's-eye (or whatever you like to aim at), you must push the front sight to the right to get on target. Also, the rear tangent sight has a setting at the very rear which is called the "battle setting." At this setting, and after properly sighting in at 100 yards or meters, by aiming at center of body mass, you will hit an enemy between the shoulders and hips at ranges from zero to 300 meters or yards. Of course, you have the traditional ranges also listed from 100 to 700 or 800 meters or yards. For general use, sight-in at 100 meters or yards.

Feeding Problems

The beauty of the AK is that it eats just about any ammo you feed it with ease. That's just the way it was designed. Of course, you may encounter problems as with any firearm. Any new rifle may need a break in period, so don't be alarmed if you have a few failures feeding or extracting. Be sure it is properly lubed and oiled before you shoot and that may curb any problems before they manifest. Some AK's such as the Yugo's have a three- position gas setting which should be in the middle position. The other two are for very dirty rifles (more gas) and very hot loads (less gas). Be sure to check here if you have short stroking problems. In rare cases, you may have a bad magazine follower. Bent magazine bodies are more likely and this is easy to spot once you suspect a problem. If the rifle fails to run the bolt carrier to the rear AT ALL, then you have a block in the gas orifice between the bore and the gas tube. This may shut your shooting down for that session since it is going to require getting a probe in there to clean out whatever is blocking the orifice. Pretty rare, but possible.

Cleaning

This is going to involve some disassembly of your new AK. Not a problem. Just pop the dust cover off and proceed to take it down. Instructions are furnished with all AK's these days and plenty are available online. The best policy for cleaning is to assume that your ammo is made with corrosive primers, especially if it came from overseas. This means if you don't clean it after shooting, the bore will rust as well as the bolt face and breech areas. It's a really ugly mess, but will not actually affect the operation of your AK unless it is an extreme case and you let the situation go without ever stopping the rust. However, why take a chance on ruining the value of you rifle? Hoppe's No 9 cleaner is the best to use to clean up after corrosive primers. Use liberally and you will sleep well at night. Even if the primers are not corrosive, it is still a good policy to properly clean (from the rear of the bore) after a firing session. Lightly oil after cleaning and reassemble your AK.

Accessories

Not much is needed for the AK-47 except a sling. However, if you think you may want to add a scope, then you want to make sure your rifle comes with a scope mount. These can be added later, but the problem is finding someone to mount it accurately. It's just easier to get it on the rifle from the start. Something to consider, especially if you are getting near the "50" mark where the old eyes start losing a bit of their sharpness.

A bit of information on the mount. The traditional AK-47 scope mount is on the left side of the rifle, which is different from most modern rifles. It is a matter of necessity since there is not a solid mounting point to mount the scope on the top rear of the rifle. Dust cover mounts are available, but will not hold a steady zero. That method is OK for iron sights as on the Galil, but just not practical for a scope. The side mount does provide a nice feature in that it provides easy removal and replacement without losing "zero."

Other scope mounting options are available, now that the accessory market has greatly expanded. Picatinny rail handguards are available that replace the front handguards. On the Picatinny rails you can mount your favorite scope or aiming device. The potential problem here is the fair amount of heat generated from firing is quickly transferred to the sighting devices. Also, the picatinny rails are usually made of aluminumm which is pretty hot on the hands even if no scopes are attached. Of course, mounting a scope that far forward usually requires a long eye relief model or just a zero magnification aim point or red dot sight. If this method of sight attachment appeals to you, then you are covered.

There are many AK scopes to pick from. Since the traditional scope mount for the AK is on the left side, you need to either get a scope with integral mount such as a Russian PSO-1 or similar, or buy a left-side mount and add your favorite scope. The PSO-1 style scopes are good and are made to the military spec and configuration of the original Soviet model. In fact, you can still get one made in the Belarus military factory. Keep in mind, as with the accuracy of the AK, Russian scopes are not quite as good as we are used to here in the West. They get the job done, however. Sighting in a Russian scope is a bit different in that the windage and elevation knobs operate a bit different for the sighting- in process. Also, the reticle does not stay centered as on a Western scope. There are instructions online (AK-47.net) on how to sight-in a Russian-style scope. If you go with the side scope mount by itself, you can add just about any scope you like, including one you may have sitting unused. Such a deal. To the AK purist, mounting anything other than an AK style scope on an AK-47 is not kosher; just doesn't look quite right. But, each to his own.

The bottom line on accessories is that you can "pitch to the wind," in other words, you can "pimp out" your AK to your heart's desire! Keep in mind that the more equipment you apply, the less handy and rugged your AK becomes. It was designed as a rough and tough weapon and many believe it should be kept that way; the simpler the better.

That is the high points on buying a new AK-47. Of course, the complete history of the AK is not included here. That has been beat nigh-unto-death. You may check that out on many web sites if you desire.

We do have a short article on the "myth" of Kalashnikov having designed the AK-47 from a "clean sheet of paper" which you will find interesting.